A Missouri masterpiece, start in a Dihedral leading to an overhanging roof, pull the roof to a standing rest and continue for more overhanging jugs leading to a thin redpoint crux.

The Grand Finale

Love Letter

Cortez

Modern Petroglyph

Fading Glory

Anthrax

Grandfather Sky

An angling navigation through a couple roofs. Rock quality goes from great to horrible to great, but overall it's a fun time. As you exit the main roof of Modern Petroglyph, instead of continuing up, follow fixed draws across the lip of the roof to the right, pulling over onto a face, then up the steep headwall continually angling to the right. A bit of rope drag due to length and changing angles, but back-cleaning a few clips as you go helps. May be a little soft for the grade, as the bolt-line purposefully forces some moves that can be avoided.

Unfortunately, this climb requires a "trolly start" due to the unclimbable sugar-choss at the base of the route.  Stick clip the first bolt and haul to the near-by jugs.  Past the second bolt,  the climbing is fantastic.  Climb through the crux at the first roof and then rest up before being briefly transported to Sam's Throne on the short, but tricky, headwall.

Originally an A2 line climbed Aug 9th 1979 by Kelly Mallicoat and Clint Carriker called Montezuma's Revenge. Cortez, who conquered Montezuma, now goes free. 

  Climb out the impressive hanging corner utilizing sequential gymnastic beta and pull over the roof on excellent jugs.

Shares a start with Love Letter. Stick clip and boink past the choss. Traverse right and up, unclipping and re-racking the first two draws behind you to save on rope drag and ease cleaning. Becareful through this section as the rock is extremely suspect. Bust up through the roof on jugs, clip the last permadraw, and collect yourself for a dynamic crux at the lip. Two bolts of easier climbing take you to the chains.

Start seated on a big obvious jug and go straight up through a couple hard moves. Head left on flat edges and make big moves on some glued holds to gain an obvious drop off. 

The little, but worthy, brother to "The Grand Finale" Start as for "The Grand Finale", when you pull the first roof trend right towards the bolts without permadraws, continue upward for a nice vertical outing.

The main attraction. The creme de la creme of Missouri roof climbing.

Description

Protection

Routes in 3. The Refuge