This is a famous historical route, put up in 1934. The route, however, consists mostly of wandering ledge traverses and the rock quality is not great. The climbing is not memorable, but the summit sure is. It is rather surprising such a precipitous looking spire has this easy route. Although rated 5.9, there is only one hard move, and if aided the route is rated 5.6, A0.

Follow the gully east of the Cathedral Spires and GO ALL THE WAY TO THE NOTCH BETWEEN THEM! The start of this route is hard to find and numerous parties have started too low. The actual route begins only about 150 feet from the notch, so go all the way to the notch to be sure you are not starting too low (see the "Direct Start").

Follow an intricate route up to "Main Ledge", a huge ledge halfway up. The first pitch is rated 5.6, and ends at a gigantic (ant infested) tree. A 4th class pitch leads to the left end of Main Ledge. If you go straight up now you are on "South by Southwest (11a)". But for this route, wander right on Main Ledge (3rd class), staying high. Now comes the short crux by a bolt. Make an awkward 5.9 face move (or aid on bolt) and then move up and right to easy ground.

The FA went up the menacing, thin flake detached ten inches from the wall (this flake is located somewhere above the bolt, I believe, if it hasn't fallen off by now). The mindset necessary to climb the flake bordered on insanity. First, a sharp projection on the flake was lassoed. Then the rope, hanging vertical, was climbed hand-over-hand until it was possible to mantel the projection. If liebacked, the fragile flake would have broken so out came the hammer. The leader then delicately chipped footholds into the flake while balancing his weight in an effort to keep from pulling the feature and himself from the wall. This was Yosemite's first instance of chipping, a practice that was not repeated until the sport-climbing boom in the 1980s [thanks to Chris McNamara for this historical paragraph, excerpted from SuperTopo].

Continue up a pitch 5.5 and then one last 4th class pitch to the summit.

Regular Route

South by Southwest

Regular Route - Direct Start

Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall)

Hail To The Chief

Northeast Face

The climb shares the first two pitches (5.6, 5.4)  with Regular Route. P3: Then instead going right on the Main Ledge, continue straight up a shallow corner, pass some pins (5.9), pass a bulge (10d) to a baley before right facing corner. P4. Climb straight up the corner to a roof, traverse under the roof, and over to a stance (11a), then a bit higher to a good stance (5.8). P5: a 5.9 pitch leads to the top. There is also a 10a variation if you break left at the very top. Enjoy the view of the valley and el cap! (nota bene: the 11 pitch is more like the 'old school' 10. So this may be a good climb to break into the grade.)

This route is followed by parties in a hurry to get on the Regular Route.  They can't believe how high it begins and they start at an area which seems to fit the route description.  This route joins the regular route in the middle of the traverse along Main Ledge.

Begin 100-200 feet lower than the normal start (climbers right).  A hundred feet up is a tree which you may convince yourself must be the one on the regular route (it is not).  Climb a 5.7 pitch to this tree.

Above things get steeper and the difficulty increases.  Follow thin cracks up the vertical face to Main Ledge.  This section is much more sustained than the crux of the regular route.

This may be the "NE Chimney (5.8)" route described in Stever Roper's 1971 guide.  It is in the same area, but there is no chimney on this route!

*Currently this is an adventure route.**

We did not fix lines and just went for it so expect a fresh experience.

Climb the first seven pitches of Hail To The Chief. Ratings for those pitches are 9, 10-, 11-, 10, 11, 9+, 7 fuzzy wuzzy. At start of pitch 6 traverse right clipping bolt. Go around blunt arête and climb gonger flakes (5.7) back to join original line.

From the giant ledge atop pitch 7, after moving belay to base of pillar. Climb up a ways then around left side of pillar. "The finger" Once around climb towards the huge block that is in the right gaping crack above. Belay up under block where smaller gear is available and is safe from above. Save the 5 & 6 for the next pitch. 9+

Climb over left side of block and engage flare utilizing a range of techniques. You will pass an old aid ladder (upper north face Rowell/Macdonald 6/1962) the last bolt on this old ladder serves as a fine directional to keep the rope from going deep. Next, you will have to wiggle through a Harding Slot sort of affair. Once out of the womb, move left a few feet and fire up #6 crack to anchor ledge. Exhale. This pitch is probably more like 10+ or 11-.  Really steep.

Thanks to Kevin Deweese and Steve Bosque for putting up Hail To The Chief and then telling me about it. The work they did was a lot!! Much appreciated.

Your first goal is to reach the notch (from the east) between the Lower Cathedral Spire and Church Tower.  This is 3rd-4th class, and if you do this unroped, don't fall.  If you rope up, the biggest problem is the rope knocking loose rocks onto the belayer.  Be careful, helmets recommended!

From the notch another 4th class pitch continues to the base of a steep vertical wall.  The next three pitches are each rated 5.9.  Follow a left facing corner up through an overhanging slot and find a small ledge on the left to belay.  P2: above lies a large left facing dihedral, the first ascent followed a crack on the left face.  Better, follow the dihedral itself, which is 3-4" wide the whole way (Pratt-Faint variation).

P3: traverse right to a strenuous vertical crack, crank up this short move (crux), follow a ramp past a scary loose flake and continue more easily to the top.  This pitch also has a variation to the left up a right facing corner (Fredericks-Sacherer variation, looks more strenuous).  Continue to the summit via one more 4th class pitch.

With 60m ropes, probably some of the crux pitches can be combined.

Description

Protection

Routes in 4. Lower Cathedral Spire