Start on the same block as for

NoName 4

.  Head leftward up the short slab to the base of a right-facing corner w/ a crack.  Follow this for 10 feet then make a balance move (read: find good feet) up & right out of the corner to a jug & fixed pin just right of a very small tree @ the start of a left-trending flake.  Follow this flake up & left for a short ways then straight up to the anchor.

Pass the Ditchie

The Squeeze

Spinefish (aka NoName 7)

The Test

Original Route

Stay True (aka NoName 3)

Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1)

Two Tone

Graybeard (aka NoName 1)

Short Sport in the Short Fort

He's an Angry Elf

Traditional Values

Twister

Primadona (aka NoName 6.3)

Calico

Bearded Outlaw

Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02)

Jungle Monkey

The Harvey

Five O'Clock Shadow

The Ballerina (aka NoName 6)

Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5)

The Cave Route aka NoName 01

Moral Decay (aka NoName 4)

Swimming Upstream

Road Runner

Yellico Groove

NoName 6.7

Start directly above the finish of

Roadside Attraction

(or

NoName 5

as it's referred on this website).  Great movements lead up past a few interesting sections to the top of the cliff.  Interesting & varied positions make for an enjoyable pitch.

Climb jugs to the first bolt then pull a V1 boulder problem through the next two bolts and finish on easy climbing trending left.

Just where the ramp/crack behind the bushes meets the ground on the right side is a four bolt clip up with an interesting sequence. The rock looks friable but it is solid. I did not do the pitch above, but it looks good.

Per

dbyte

: Starts 10 feet left of

The Ballerina

(aka

NoName 6

).  REALLY thin & desperate start to more difficulty through the 1st 20 feet. Get past this & cruise to the anchors.  Groundfall potential if the 2nd or 3rd clips are botched.

This is a compilation of descriptions and information.

Climb a low angle slab past two bolts. The second bolt is underneath a small bush growing  on a small ledge. Pass the bush on the right and on to the ledge. Clip the third bolt and then make the first crux moves. You can go straight up but it's probably easier to work left into the arching crack. Climb the crack up and right and at the fifth bolt you'll encounter the second crux, a set of reachy moves with less positive holds. Finish by climbing the shallow corner feature to the anchor.

This is the only traditionally protected climb left on the Roadside Wall.  Start in the same spot as

NoName 6.3

.  Follow the coarse, hand crack up & left to the tree.

The third route right of tree on the ledge (NoName5) has a quite interesting start that I thought ticked in close to 5.12a, a bit easier perhaps. It is a crimpy series of moves that runs through some pale colored stone to the dark grey rock above. The small edges have not yet picked up typical limestone polish - so they are still friendly. This route is a good intro to the much harder and much crimpier routes to the left.

Per

dbyte

: Start as for Traditional Values & head left @ the 1st ledge system ~20 feet up to the base of a short gray headwall. Getting up onto the headwall is the crux, followed by pulls on crisp edges to the top. The rock quality on the headwall is excellent.

This is a compilation of descriptions and information.

Climb a thin crack on the right side of the face to good positive holds on the right arete.

Stick clip the first bolt to protect the easy opening section before making powerful moves to the second bolt and past it before it eases up at the third bolt. The climbing is overhung but has some nice incut edges. You can stop at the first anchor or continue on the nice gray slab to a second anchor.

Where the trail encounters the cliff band, hike right about 60 feet. The obvious face has some interesting moves that chase a line bolts for 40 feet. It is a taste.

This route starts off of a ledge and climbs some good but small edges in a slightly steep wall.  A few good pulls and it's done.  Basically it's a V2-V3 boulder problem that is rope protected.

Again this is another boulder problem that I wanted to do, but it couldn't be padded, so it is rope protected  It starts on two good ledges and then moves left onto a sloping pinch and nothing pockets to the lip and works the lip up and right.  The bulges under the chains and to the right can also be toproped.  It is really just one really hard boulder problem and you are done.

Since the Western Sloper guidebook was published, this route has been bolted with bolt anchors @ its top.  The route is ~50 feet left of

NoName 1

.  Follow a discontinuous crack up & right before heading left to the anchors.

This route is another short one with harder moves.  It follows a strange melted looking crack feature with difficult and awkward moves.  Currently it is red tagged, unless the tag fell off, and exits up and right over the lip to high anchors from which you can toprope a thin, steepish face.

Start off the ledge directly above

The Ballerina

(

NoName 6

here).  Do the 1st 15 feet of

Original Route

, breaking right just after clipping a bolt on the face.  A few long moves get you established in a faint groove which is followed further up before trending left to the anchors.  This has thoughtful moves on holds that sometimes feel like they face the wrong way.

Calico is a short, bouldery route with big moves on good holds and sharp, sharp rock. The rock is beautiful and the climbing is good and the only thing holding it back is the route's short length.

Climb the slabby start of

Graybeard

, and veer left just before the first bolt, clipping the first bolt of Bearded Outlaw. Tiptoe on balancy moves to the left and up to the second bolt. Move your feet up to clip the third bolt before underclinging and laybacking the flake. Once on top of the flake, easier climbing leads to the anchor.

This route has existed as a popular toprope for some time, and it should prove to be one of the easier leads at the Puoux now that it is bolted.

This route

NoName 01

are in their own small section farther right than any other routes @ the Roadside Wall.  A thin section right after the start & another crux @ the bulge above make this a challenge with somewhat small holds for the grade.  This is definitely easier if you're tall.

Climb up the easy slab, stepping up and right. From the stance, go straight up the slab encountering a small crux at mid-height. The climb finishes with easier climbing to a stance below the steep, gray panel of rock where the anchor is located.

Start from the belay platform at the base of

Traditional Values

and

Stay True

, but go up and right, aiming for a "hole", capped by a small roof. Step right while passing the roof and continue on the slabby face above. Sharp, textured rock characterize this upper face with a slight, final crux at the last bolt before the anchor. This upper face can be made easier by stepping right or you can keep the difficulty more consistent by staying on the face.

Five O'Clock Shadow climbs a panel of gray rock above the popular moderates,

Graybeard

and

Bearded Outlaw

.

It's possible to climb this in one long pitch, combined with

Bearded Outlaw

. Or, climb

Graybeard

or

Bearded Outlaw

, and belay on the ledge above their anchors at a 2 glue-in bolt anchor. From there, step left and on to the gray slab that makes up Five O'Clock Shadow.

Five O'Clock Shadow has positive holds, good texture, and a crux early on that involves some balance and finding the best holds.

You can stop at an anchor below the edge of the cliff for a lower or you can continue to the top of the cliff where you can belay from above and rappel from chains with rings.

You need a full 60 meter rope to lower or rappel. Watch your ends, and put knots in the ends.

The first route left of the trail begins a bit harder than the one on the right. Once again, the second pitch seems the better of the two by far. You can pick off either of the two pitches that start off the ledge behind the tree.

Route-5 has two very short pitches. Begin exactly where the trail meets the cliff. The upper pitch is far and away the better of the two.

Per

Drew Jagoda Horowitz

: This short route is the first you arrive at from the parking area at Puoux. Apparently for a long time it was rated as 5.8 or 5.9. However, apparently a good amount has been chipped off, since this is a solid 5.10a as listed in the most current guide. You can link this with the pitch above it (another short 5.10a) with a 60 meter rope. Easily located, but super waxy holds!

This is a combination of 2 submissions for the route.

This is the farthest route right at the Roadside Wall; a few hundred feet from where the trail meets the cliff. It is a wandering line around some big holes in the rock & other irregularities. This is difficult to recommend.

Start on a flat block 15 feet left of

NoName 3

.  Wander up a short slab to below a small overlap.  Over this on either the left or right, then into a crack/flake which you follow to anchors up & just left.

This is a short, little climb with great stone. The hardest climbing is right off the ground, and this is tightly bolted (every 4 feet), making it a good route for a kid to do their first lead on. There is also a second "pitch" to this. It is a low angle slab with three bolts that is 3rd class and about 25 feet.

Start above

The Ballerina

& 15 feet left of

Original Route

.  Follow a sharp & coarse crack left & up around a small bulge, then past another overlap on the right to the anchors.  This climb has not seen much traffic so expect some hand & foot holds to break.  Due to its position (highway & train tracks) & inability to see your belayer from the anchors, be careful with communication when lowering.

This starts 20 feet left of

Spine Fish

.  The 1st 15 feet is the meat, with small crimps & longish moves between them.  It is very bouldery.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Wall