Climb the tree that

Pinhead

starts from as high as you possibly can, and then transition onto the rock when possible. Belay/rap from bolts atop Pinhead.

An unusual climb that in theory may get easier as the tree grows taller! Take some slings to tie off branches for protection if so inclined.

Five Tree

Pinhead

Limp Dick

Dickhead

Fallatio

Dick Tracy

Climb the face past the obvious features (dishes etc...) passing zero bolts.  The crux is at the top.  Woodward bouldered it until he felt comfortable commiting to the move.

It might be possible to stack multiple pads in a manner that would keep one from getting hurt and also prevent going down the hill after landing.

Begin by climbing the tree until able to transition onto the rock; a sling around the tree provides some protection before the first bolt. Once established on the face traverse slightly left and then launch up thin, technical moves to a somewhat pumping finish on larger holds.

Overall a very good route with a scenic location, excellent rock and intriguing movement that's a welcome diversion from the slab climbing so common to the area.

An aesthetic and exciting mantle and undercling lead up to a fun, easy face.  There isn't much difficult climbing on this route, but it takes you to an interesting summit.

A fun, strenuous crux move by a bolt is followed by 140 feet of easy, unprotected face climbing.  The spelling here is from the current guidebook.  Earlier guidebooks used the more expected "fellatio" spelling.  Do a short rappel north from the summit.

This climb is on the long northeast face of the rock.  For the approach, scramble high up the gully on the left side of Sunshine Wall.  It starts near the tunnel used to access the South Face.  The climb is a short, very enjoyable steep pocketed face with good protection.  Shortly above the second bolt, the difficulty eases up considerably, and you can scramble to the top.  The second bolt was placed more for protection of the second person than for the leader.  The first ascensionists claim that they considered "Hard On" for the route's name before settling on Dick Tracy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (f) Limp Dick