Dr Taco

Shaolin Mantis

Horse With No Name

I Ain't So Sure Hank Did It This Way

Internal Dialogue

Professor Gray's School of Bolting

LIttle Khumbu

Super Natural

Sea of Tranquility

Reaching Conclusions

Shorty Longback

Bridge Burner

Napoleon Complex

Hungry for Histo

Catfish Strangler

Angelfire

A Walk in the Park

Harlem

Absolution

Gypsies

Invasive Species

Superman

La Machina

Winter Harvest

Little Purple Flowers

Ecstasy Loves Company

Bohemian Rhapsody

Grain of Sand

Second Fiddle

Chinese Arithmetic

Black Label

Hunter's Moon

Take It To The Limit

Superwoman

Thieves in the Temple

The Big Show

Disorientation 101

Grapevine Massacre

Bowling for Buzzards

Shaved Scamper

Full Frontal

Afterglow

Stop the Presses

Welcome to Reed's Creek

Pleather

Second Rule

Crystal Chandelier

Apophis

The Bat Roof

One page at a time

Still Laughing

A Roll of the Dice

Buckaroo

Banzai

Block Magic

Fire on the Mountain

Dangerous Freedoms

Golden Horseshoe

Skywalker

Not a Gimmie

Joker

Foaming at the Mouth

Rain

Great warm up that gives a horizontal and roofy Gunks feel, even if it's a sport route.

Start up a somewhat loose notch that is capped by a small roof. You can clip the first bolt from right under the roof on decent holds (awkward).  Pull out around the roof and establish on the face and clip the second bolt. Pull the crux on small holds with good feet while clipping the third bolt (much easier if the draw is pre-hung and a little long). From a good stance climb the steep wall following the crack/weakness.  Once at the roof, traverse right and up a short dihedral, clipping a bolt around the corner on your left (use a long sling), and then traverse back left onto the face using good holds. Easy climbing to the anchors.

On Rakkup this was listed as an 11a, but I thought the crux was a substantial step up from that and more like 11c.  The rest of the route is steep and continuous 5.10 climbing on decent rock. Three star route for the area.

Second climb right of the left-side arete on Gypsies Wall, the wall you encounter if you take a right at the approach trail fork at the tree.  Run out between the first and second bolt, but there are gear placements there if desired (BD #2 Camalot or nuts).

Trad line or TR.

Climb the left wall in the dihedral. Go around the roof to the left to shared anchors on the left wall.

Plenty of gear placements and jams. The abrasive rock might warrant some tape.  There's some loose rock and plenty of foliage- maybe will clean up with more traffic.

Jugs and face climbing to a stance on a ledge under the roof.  The route climbs up and right around the lower, smaller roof on the right and avoids the larger v-shaped roof on the left.

Reach for decent crimips at the lip of the roof, slap above the roof for the slopey ledge above and grunt over the first roof. At the next roof, follow jugs from right to left to access the anchors above.

Start on horizontal buckets and work up through some gaps with high steps to a fun last few moves.  I bit run out up high.

This is a rare trad line for Reeds and feels very much like a Gunks line once you pull up over the mini prow.

The crux is avoiding the chossy-tidbits that fall during the first 25 feet as you ascend the dihedral.

Right of the rock platform, up through the v.  The crux roof moves are protected by a bolt above and below.  Easy climbing above the roof to anchors.

Cleaning the draws below the roof is rough on rappel, would definitely be better to clean while following.

Crux is at the first bolt, reaching the jugs up and left of the bolt.  The climbing eases up after the first 2 bolts, with mostly horizontal cuts and pockets.  Ground fall potential at second bolt, but the stance is good.

More of a bolted boulder problem, than a route; however, SL is darned fun. Start on the small SWish facing face right and downhill from of a chimney/corner on a steep slope. Starts right of Rain and Little Khumbu.

Climb easy 5th class past one bolt to an awkward standup under a 3' roof. Tension out on a weird sidepull and huck for glory... don't even think about doing the move static, whether or not it's easier that way. Jumping is fun!

Clean moves up steep, solid rock. After the rest stance halfway up, climb the thin face, finding thin crimps where you need them until you reach buckets. The fifth, crux, bolt is too far left to be optimal.

Short and stout 3 bolts on a relativly blank face

This is the first pitch for access to a cold day in hell 5.13+

Start in RUN-DMC cave on the left wall (left while looking out of the cave). Clip a bolt in the middle of a large flat section of the wall and traverse right towards the mouth of the cave. Once outside climb up to the anchors.

Super fun with a gorgeous view at the top.

Must be top roped to clean.

Super fun route. Breeze up 3 bolts to the roof and get ready for the 3 moves that make this great climb an 11a. Keep your head in the game for a couple of meaty undercling jugs/flakes under the roof to throw a few foot jams in and then the reach of faith up over the top to some mini jugs. Stick that and throw a massive right heel hook that can easily evolve into a crucial toe jam. Pull over the lip you're at the home stretch with a finish of 3 more bolts to the anchors.

Go up the face (easier than it looks) into the dihedral (crux) then pull a few overhanging moves on jugs to the finish.

Climb the slabby face and featured arete past the first two bolts to a ledge, clip the third bolt and make a few moves to a stance and the 4th bolt, pass the bolt to the left with a balancey highstep around the arete (crux) and clip the anchors (formerly the 5th bolt).

The anchor was changed so that this line and "Don't Think Hank" could be climbed separately.

Look for the chain draw in the center of the low 15' horizontal roof. Start in the cave, climb past a bolt low on the face, being mindful of potentially loose rock before the business. Climb past four bolts in the roof (yup, they're close together, as I didn't want anyone decking) to finish up 50' of 5.8 on Winterharvest.

Note: the start of the route climbs left onto the large pedestal allowing a large reach to a sneaky jug , which allows for the very approachable grade of 5.12b (or possibly 12c). There is a direct start -- absolutely an eliminate -- that I've been toying around on just for fun, which avoids the large jug referenced above. This will probably bump the grade into the 13 range for those wanting something else to do. The direct start pulls into a matched crimp undercut, then moves to a small sidepull near the chain draw to set up for a wild throw, or possibly tensiony move, to the horseshoe jug.

Carefully work up the crack and crumbly rock at the base of the prow to a high first bolt where the rock quality improves. Continue up the fists/off-width crack, but for those who fear jamming there are adequate face holds to maintain the grade. Attack the overhang in the middle of the route by finding big crimps and high feet necessary to establish on the face above. Move right through the last roof to anchors on the right side of the prow.

Just to the left of shave and scamper very similar climb

Climb through 3 bolts out the left side of the cave and join the top portion of Hungry for Histo.

Superman is a classic route at Reed's Creek in West Virginia. Ascend the narrow face of a blocky arete to the wide face above, moving right until exposed. Finish on cold shuts and links.

Top of the cliff is all private land; don't go there. Trespassing isn't cool.

Begin on a ramp and face to the right aiming for the short ledge and rail above. Move up and left to a jug and crank through engaging terrain to a buggy roof and easier moves to the anchor.

Another Gunkesque-type sport route with the roof and horizontals above.  Crux probably is pulling up onto first set of horizontals above the roof.

Blocky start out of an overhanging alcove.  Climbs through bulges and small roofs on pockets and jugs.

Start under the huge hueco with opposing teeth that make for great holds from any direction. Move up through a mail box and a horizontal, then make a big reach left to some side pulls and continue straight up through 5 bolts to a slabby run-out that takes BD #2 cam. Reach over the short roof for the anchors.

Follow the crack next to Professor Gray's School of Bolting through the low overhang and either traverse left under the second overhang to the anchors or over another overhang and walk over to the anchors.

Squeeze into/layback the big crack to the left of the bolt line and the uncannily featureless face. Move right onto the face as holds appear and establish below the big roof on the right side. Reach for the lip on the right and follow holds left to bolt #5 hidden above the lip of the roof. Move up over bolt #5 to the anchors above.

Starts up the 1st 2 bolts of Chinese Arithmetic, and at the big ledge veres right to the narrow corner.  After the corner, climb a long stretch of nice juggy face to ring anchors.

Start on easy but very loose looking rock past two bolts to a ledge. Follows the left set of bolts through some sustained face moves to easier ground and better quality rock. Pull on easy jugs through beautiful orange rock to the top.

No idea why so many climbs in reeds creek are missing on MP, but I'm copying from Mike's guide book on Rakkup (buy it, its cheap):

Climb the thin face between Internal Dialogue and Block Magic to a stance in the cave. Scale the left wall of the cave to roof anchors. 5.12- if you stick to the face crimps, more like 11.c if you use the corner to the left moving between bolts 3 and 5. Two-bolt anchor with fixed draws.

Crux is pulling up to the prominent ledge, with 5.8 moves from the ledge to the anchors.

Fire into the crux right from the start using crimpy sidepulls and odd footwork.  There's a nice rest ledge right before the roof.  Pull the roof and clip one more to the anchors.

Just off vertical slab with lots of mail boxes and horizontal edges. Two ledges break up the ascent, but lots of bolts ease the danger of a fall.

Following the bolt line itself is a little tougher than climbing on either side of it.

Climb stays left of the dihedral and mostly off to the right side of the bolt line.  Pockets, buckets, and jugs all the way up.

The line just left of Shaolin Mantis. Start on the left side of the cave and climb through some suspect rock to a good stance around the third bolt. Boulder up some powerful sidepulls with sloping feet. Reach a stance a shake below the roof, pull from underclings to good finger buckets and run for the chains.

Casual climbing to the roof and then get ready to try harder. Luckily, you have a bolt midway on the roof. There are good holds on the face, but it's still a bit cruxy until you clip the next bolt. After that, easy climbing to the anchors. The guidebook has this at 10d/11a.

Start on the left wall of the cave and climb out and right to a fixed chain. Then move up the steep wall, over a lip and follow easier moves to the finish.

The start is on a crumbly section of the wall, it begins easy but become complicated around the second bolt, with the crux between the second and the third bolt. The crux seems much harder than the 5.10b route rating in the rakkup guidebook by Mike Gray and Tyrel J. Johnson, possible due missing key holds. Pull small roof at the third bolt and continue up on excellent rock

Furthest right route on the gypsy wall.  climb beautiful fossil encrusted sandstone pockets and horizontals

Move straight up a vertical face on good horizontal edges, after the break in the cliff face reach left for the arete until you reach the anchors.

Great moves on sharp face holds, a low and a high dihedral, and a razor sharp arete. Basically everything but a chimney in just 30 feet. Too bad its soo short.

Aptly named, filled with presses and mantle moves.

Follow the face through easy horizontals to a vertical slot that can be ring locked or gastoned, reach for the slopey hands at the ledge move into the broad dihedral for the anchors.

Positive climbing up a right sloping ramp to stem and mantles.  The last bolt is an awkward clip from the v of the upper dihedral, and might be better off in a different location.  Don't skip it and run it out to the anchor, or you'll risk a ledge fall.  You can also clip it from below

Start the same as Pleather, at the ledge move right to a thin crack in the roof that becomes a cleft at the lip of the roof. Make a big reach to the cleft and find hidden jugs that make the pull possible. Follow the jugs to the right to access the anchors.

Climb past 5 bolts using whatever neat face moves you can to a nice rest ledge. From here I've seen the route go two ways - straight up through a small dihedral or out right to pull a thank-God jug over the roof. The roof gets interesting! Clip two more to the anchors.

Start on good holds, climb through the crux around the third to forth bolt.  Enjoy easier terrain to the anchor.

Crux is down low, a move to a finger lock protected with an early first bolt.  After the 2nd bolt the climbing eases up, and becomes face climbing on horizontal rails.

Fun climbing on pockets and jugs. If I remember correctly, one part is pretty run out.

Bouldery start leads to steep climbing on jugs.

Jugs and stemming up a corner.  Some sand and loose rock, but the gear is good.  Keep out of the bushes.

Steep jugs lead you through a couple of overlaps.  Cut left around the final overlapping mini roof to a hidden-from-below final bolt before easy moves to the anchors.

Establish yourself on a ledge, then follow the path of least resistance that traverses left around the short overhang/roof then heads up to the chains. If you go straight up, it's called 'Ice on the Mountain'. Lots of traversing, bring extendable/alpine draws.

The ramp up to the first bolt can be protected with a BD #3 cam.  After the first bolt, turn the corner onto the face.  Pull the bulge through some thin face climbing.

Hard start, but good climbing after second bolt.

Climb the bottom of Apophis to the bottom of the large tiered overhang. Climb the center of the overhang past a fun and challenging overhang. Watch out for some loose (but easily avoidable) choss after the crux.

This thing is a blast and is perhaps a good first 5.12, as it is low in the grade and sports lots of clean air at the crux.

Make a couple of hard moves to clip the first bolt below the roof. Pull into the roof and clip the second bolt. After pulling the roof follow easier ground on jugs to the anchor.

Start on the ledge under the first bolt. Climb the engaging orange and white face to the middle ledge. Follow the edges and small pockets on the short face to a horizontal crack below the roof. Climb the right-facing side of the protruding roof, and then finish on the lower angle terrain to the anchors.

Pull hard right from the deck, stem, layback, smear, grunt, and whatever else you need to move through 3 bolts in quick succession. Climbing eases up after that as you continue right all the way around the arete to find a hidden bolt, then straight up through easy moves to a big tree of questionable integrity that serves as the anchor . . . yeeesh:(

Route begins under the roof and continues on massive pockets onto and up the face. The first bolt is right by a massive chalked jug that diagonally crosses the roof. Very fun climbing on featured rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Reeds Creek