You start in a low angled crack and move up jugs in two parallel crack systems until you commit to the right crack.  Solid protection.  Watch out where you're smearing some of the slab is loose. The route is short and pretty chossy.  Fun beginning trad lead.  I don't think it has seen very many ascents.

References: Vogel, Randy. (2006). Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West. Falcon Publishing. A great resource.

Scamp

Desperado

Stood Up

Kemosabe and Tonto

Carne Asada

Non-Decumbent Destiny

Learn Quick or Die

Out, Out, Brief Candle

Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty

Tonto and the Great White Leader

Quesadilla

Fat Free

Three Burner Stove

Just left of the large cleft in the face, you will see a bolt about fifteen feet above. Climb to the bolt and continue up cracks to the top. Finish right of the summit block.I found this to be quite an enjoyable route.

This route begins about 30' up and to the left of the large cleft in the center of the formation. It's to the left of "Desperado". Climb a groove and cracks to the left end of the summit roof. Step left then to the summit. The crack to the right and a bit below the summit is a variation climbed by me as second--on the rope-- on this route (5.10b).

This route starts at the base of the large cleft and next to the yuccas. Climb the crack system directly to the top. The original party rated this route 5.9. I would rate it 10a/10b; it's strenuous with a tricky start.

Crux is first 20ft.  Good TR that has thought provoking climbing down low with easier movements up top

Start about 25 feet to the right of the yuccas that are at the base of the large cleft in the face of the formation. Climb up and slightly left until you reach a horizontal that allows you to traverse right for about 20' to a vertical crack. Take it to the summit.

Start about 25' right of Non-Decumbent Destiny and just to the right of the pillar. Climb about forty feet to a bolt then right a bit to a second bolt (old bolts). Continue up various cracks to the summit.

This route lies about ten feet to the right of "Learn Quick or Die". Begin in a wide shallow grove that narrows toward a somewhat vague ledge. Continue straight up using what small cracks are available for protection. At one point, you can step left about ten feet and slightly below the second bolt on "Learn Quick..." and use the crack on that route to place pro. About three slings will be necessary to traverse back to your route and avoid rope drag. Continue up until you come to an obvious horizontal crack that allows you to traverse right and up to the off-width crack that leads to the summit. The OW crack is quite obvious from the ground. This route should improve with climbing. It's a bit grainy now. OOBC has many challenges; toprope it if you have any doubts.

Step up off the blocky slab and try to get some good pro in the semi mealy crack (maybe set a couple of pieces well).  Pull on them, um, uhh, or climb past them and pro it up in the cracks above, finally turning the steep face over to the lower angle crack to slab.

Climb up slab to a promising corner system, place gear, and up ya go on kinda gritty rock (take care!).  Save a cam/nut or two for the top of the formation for a belay anchor (medium cams worked well).

Note:  this climb is rated 5.9 in the guidebook, but, we found a 5.8 A0 option available at the start, and, happily took it.  Route is a bit sandy (sand baggy?).

Poor feet on crumbly holds adds some stinky.

Name of route probably modified from the original, which, can be had with minimal imagination.  Meow!  Poor Ben, what did he do to deserve all this?  Ha ha.

Climb about one third of "Kemosabe and Tonto", to a big depression, then move left to another crack  and follow it to the top.

Crux is down low and not protectable.  Must be solid at grade.  R rating is due to the first 15-20ft

This route is on the far right side of the main wall (about 50 feet right of Learn Quick Or Die) and follows thin vertical seams interspersed with face moves past 4 bolts and one fixed pin. The rock is a bit loose in sections, but it is one of the best routes on the cliff.

Climb the first 25' of "Non-Decumbent Destiny", then a right-leaning crack to face, passing a bolt. Continue up cracks to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Great Burrito