TO me this is the Gem of Palisades Bouldering. Start on a nice curved crimp hold and smear your feet on tiny pebbles. Your left hand goes to obvious pointing rock to your left. Pull up using pure friction moves stick the decent side crimp this is probably the crux as it is almost a deadpoint for some. Once you get the side crimp KNOW that the horizontal crack above is good and although you can't see it just stick it when you go for it. Pull up on the horn and your done. Sit start direct has been done as well much harder. 1 of 3.

The Sun Is Shinning...The Ice Is Slippery

Kissing Sucker Fish

Balancing Rock

Soggy Souls

Lew Splock

Redhorse Aroma

Watch Your Head

Chalk the Other White Powder

Babylonian woman

Climb obvious face that pulls a small buldge. Stick to arete for easier climbing or attempt left for what looks to be more interesting that I haven't tried yet.

Obvious dirty dihedral just upstream from Babalonian Woman.

Alas, you are skipping down the trail when all of a sudden you see a large mass of rock that looks ready to tip over.  You approach with caution as not to disturb the structure.  After gaining the ledge, you place both hands on the rock to see if the slightest movement will cause a commotion.  Nothing happens... you pause for a moment to make sure all is well and youre off for the summit.  In gaining the summit, you have a smirk about your face because you feel as if you have done something wrong.  You have not.  In fact, you have done something any true climber should do.  You see an interesting looking rock and you have the need to climb it.   Once on top, don't move too much...

best to climb when water is low or you have to traverse before leading up. climb between the crack and the flake. Be careful of placing protection behind the flake to the right as it is hollow and might pop a piece/break off if you whip. the crack on the left accepts stoppers.  Don't use the ledge 3/4 the way up, travel left and up the big block at the top. there is a tree you kind of have to climb through, but its not too bad.

Start on the arete climbers left of Soggy Souls.  Climb arete and gain good feet. Ride a ramp up right to just below a tree. Traverse straight left following a horizontal crack around the arete, then up the east face of the top block. 

  Alternative (5.? PG13): risk large blocks pulling loose and travel straight up the arete w/o heading to the tree first.  A large block moved an inch or so when I pulled on it on the first attempt. I will go back and try again....that bastard.

Starts off easy with an under cling. The most difficult part is right at the start. Overhang has pretty good hold. Follow up the right side of the wall.

This is a pretty simple route. Climb up the left side of the rock not under the overhang. Good holds all the way up

Babylonian woman is on the backside of balancing rock and follows small crimpy holds on a face to a small overhang.

Balancing Rock is the cool well... balancing rock formation in the southern part of the park. You can park before the volleyball court and you will see Balancing Rock trailhead. Climbs are on the Backside or water side of this formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Balancing Rock