Fun and sustained, a good warmup for the more serious stuff.

Nancy's Wet  Dream

Galadriel

[Redacted]

Millertime

Precipitation

Shin Pfein

gneiss storm

Weathering The Storm

Lair of the Chupacabra

Storm Front

Incredible Huck

Under The Weather

El Nino

Perfect Storm

Will It Or Won't It?

Eye of the Storm

Gale Force

Wilard  Scott's Crack

Start following a faint crack system.  There is limited but sufficient pro.  Turn the roof crux, which is bolt protected.  Follow a few more bolts to a slanting chimney like feature.  Get out of that and clip one more bolt before the anchors.  The route is about half protected by bolts and is mostly easier than 11-.  It is long and nice to do if in the area.

Gingerly climb up to the left-facing corner and follow it until it turns into a gulley.  Carefully scramble up the gulley (at least that's what I did) until you can get some decent pro in and start working your way back left to the wide crack at the top of the route.

On the far right side of Weathertop is a north facing wall split on the right side by a nice-looking crack. This is the upper section of Millertime and it is noteworthy because it is a very fine crack climb by Mount Lemmon standards. 

  The full route is R-rated and has no fixed anchors. however, you can do Guinness Stout, the bolted 10- to the left of it, and toprope the crack by placing a #3 or #4 cam up high as a directional. If you like crack climbing it's worth getting on this, even if the crack itself is only ~5.8. There are sinker hand jams and solid fist jams to be had, and the face holds are only big enough for feet.

Start just right of Nancy's Wet Dream on some large holds beneath a right-leaning weakness. Climb the weakness until it peters out, then step right and do some face climbing until you can step back left into the large chimney up top

A challenging mixed climb with multiple cruxes.  The first crux is the first 20 feet and is protected by gear and two bolts.  After this step right into a crack and head up 30 feet to a strenuous overhanging section protected by three bolts.  Continue past a short section of hard finger crack to the anchor.

don't anticipate any solace after clipping high first bolt (as it's a crappy old smc hanger: see comment under el nino). expect even less making tricky moves past said bolt: do not fall here!  the rest of the route suffers from poor rock and nebulous route finding. i never found the anchors on this route and instead used the 2 bolts above "gale force"

Difficult to decipher crux in the bottom third leads to more straight forward but still challenging climbing.

Stiff little boulder problem right off the ground gains sustained bolted face with interesting techy moves and a growing pump. Second half is all gear. Follow great protection that takes a little wandering to find and move generally left and eventually arrive at the fat cold shut anchors. Falling while clipping several of the bolts would probably be unwise.

A funky boulder problem to get established above the lip, a quick arete sequence, a ledge, and then thin face for the last 3 bolts. It's been rumored that a kneebar will help you get past the lip

The huck is a  huck but the climbing above the jugs is the biz.

Under The Weather is an under-appreciated, underground classic.  Located just right of center on the Weathertop, Under The Weather climbs the impressive dihedral to roof crack visible from the highway.  Start in a chossy wider crack that turns into a steep, finger-to-hands crack.  The steep, left-facing dihedral curves left to form a large roof.  Traverse left under the roof with good protection.  Pull the roof on positive holds above a large pocket and continue on unprotected, easier face climbing to a two bolt anchor.  Squeezing the Lemmon suggests a #2 Camalot to protect the roof move.  The #2 does not actually fit that well although another piece (perhaps a hex?) may be more suitable.   

  The climb was originally rated 11d although it has gotten much easier as it has cleaned up considerably (11a or even 10d).  Dean got the FA during a powerful onsight effort.  He cleaned the steep finger crack as he climbed, and pulled the roof without knowing what was above.  It was apparently an awesome exhibition of endurance and composure.  This climb is one of the best cracks for the grade and will continue to get better as the lower section cleans up.  Similar in difficulty and quality to Credibility Gap and It Crack.

Climb face using the arete until you can move around to the right then up.

Dean and I did this route back in 99 or 2000.  never gave it a name and never got back on it until this year.  I've lead it twice now and I have to say it's as good as any 5.12 sport route in southern AZ.     A hard bouldery start leads to continuously pumpy and tricky moves all the way to the chains.    Slightly overhanging with finger friendly holds on great rock.

70 Meter rope required on this long pitch.  Moderate face climbing to a hard crux then excellent sustained face climbing to the anchors.  Once you work out the beta at the crux it isn't too bad but it is still hard.  With three ascents 11c was the concensus but I wouldn't have a problem with 11+ either.  Once you are over the roof work left to the next bolt or you will be on Nancy Boys Nightmare which takes gear.  It didn't seem this way when we bolted it but subsequent parties have moved right to bolts on NBN.  So stay left on the upper headwall.  It isn't any harder and all you need to protect it is draws.

One of the mellower routes you'll find at the weathertop. Low angle face with many good positive edges

Climb past 4 bolts then follow gear and weakness up leftward to large ledge.  Hard thin face climbing past 3 bolts up headwall with ankle busting possibility lead to the anchors.  If you really want to do these moves, bring your belayer up to ledge so he/she can belay you without 100 feet of rope stretch.    One can also follow a 5.9 crack off the left edge of the ledge.  This is the top of Gnice Storm.

Multiple cruxs ands great rock make this one of Mt. Lenmmon's best crack climbs.

The Weathertop is the impressive, west facing cliff seen from the road about a mile or so before the pay booth.  It is the largest cliff around, consistently over 100 feet tall.  It saw a couple FAs in the early 80's but was really developed in 1998 (although a couple routes have been established since the latest edition of Squeezing the Lemmon).   

  It is usefull to fix a single line on one of the rap anchors to ease the descent if you plan on doing more than one route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Weathertop