Starts on a section of a exfoliating well protected slab and leads up to a bulge with knobs and edges. Follow the bolt line up slabs to a final steep section.

Melissa's Cherry

Tough Gumby

Too Tall

In the Pokey

Chumming for Gumbies

Gumbercules

University Heights

Saving Rachel

Twisted Gumby

Gumbuttress

The Gumby Sanction

Free University

A mildly-moderate mid-mountain mixed-route multi-pitch. Morning sun and afternoon shade.Pitch 0: 25 feet. 4th-class slab with 1 bolt. Chain anchors. This anchor can be used for teaching people how to rappel, belay from the top, build/clean anchors, etc. Or link it with Pitch 1. Pitch 1: 100 feet. Clip a bolt and then climb up to a short, steep, layback crack. This is probably the crux of the route. Pull the crux and then follow a crack for about 30 feet. Then, start trending up and slightly left on chickenheads/plates until you reach a 2-bolt anchor. This anchor has lower-off biners, in case you want to stop here. You can lower to the top of P0 (where most climbers would feel comfortable un-roping) with a 60m, or you can reach the bottom with a 70m. Tie knots in your rope ends!Pitch 2: 80 feet. From the P1 anchor, traverse about 8 feet to the right (past the corner), and then climb up and slightly right on plates. You can get some small cams and nuts in cracks or between plates. When it gets steep, you'll encounter the first of 3 bolts. Climb past the bolts and belay at a 2-bolt anchor on a really big ledge. Or you can make an anchor on tricky gear about 10 feet to the left of the 2-bolt anchor, but you'll probably want to eventually transfer the belay to near the bolted anchor for P3 anyway. Pitch 3: 100 feet. From the 2-bolt anchor, climb up and to the right, past 3 bolts, and then scramble up whatever path you want until the climb levels out. Find something natural to belay off of. There are plenty of options. It's still another 80 feet to the true summit, but most climbers would feel comfortable un-roping at this point and just hiking the rest.Scramble off the back of the formation, and then bushwhack down and east, back to where you started.

This climb follows the obvious line on the semi-detached flake. A little thin at the start then big jugs and positive holds on the upper section.

"Climb steep rock just right of the big corner." - EFR. An unknown party added a 2-bolt anchor about 120 feet up this climb, but it's not a lower-off anchor, so you'll still have to continue climbing to the top of Barnum Rock, and then walk off. You'll probably have to turn it into at least 2 pitches. 

Walk-off required

 A fun, but run-out adventure climb. You should be very comfortable at this grade. After the first pitch, which is probably 200-220 feet by itself, another hundred feet of 3rd/4th class scrambling will take you to the top of Barnum Rock. Walk off back to the base. The route goes into the shade in the late afternoon.

 If you have a 70m rope and sling everything long, you'll just barely be able to make it to the 2-bolt anchor, which is about 15 meters above a small pine tree growing out of the rock. If you can't make that, there are some (but not many) options for a gear anchor lower down.

Fun easy climb.  Goes up big outcropping of quartz, which makes for different climbing.

There is a low crux  and a higher one that involves following a left leaning weakness.

This climb is really fun and fairly sustained and like all of the routes at this crag big holds abound, The best thing is that after the first half the climb steepens and getting to the anchor might be the crux. Fortunately a great jug allows you to easily clip the anchor. This route is Rachel's one and only first ascent and she did a ton of the work instead of just waltzing in and grabbing the glory. So cool how engaged you were Rachel. 

This is the second climb from the left. It cruises up on good rock just to the right of the large flake. An awesome first lead as there is a bolt about every 8 Ft. No excuses here. Good for the grade.

Goes past big flake/chickenhead things (watch your rope) and up the wall right of The Gumby Sanction.  Upper wall looks like 5.9 until you get there.  Easier than it appears.  Shares chains with Gumby Sanction.

One of the better route names on the mountain.  Fun easy route, decent exposure on the buttress.  A little runout in the middle, but really easy climbing.  Shares anchors with Gumbuttress.

Start up a slightly decomposing slab until it is possible to turn a bulge to the left then follow the bolts to the same anchors. There are some longer runs between bolts on easier ground. Of course you could get hurt but one would have to be pretty drunk to fall off in those spots.

A sunny, exposed SW facing crag with very good quality rock. Good choice for a first time lead. Most routes are well bolted. There are occasional access issues with nesting peregrine falcons, but a call or email to the Coronado National Forest will give current info on possible closures - the wall is usually open even during the dates listed above. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gumby Wall