A quality route that deserves more attention than it gets. Similar to routes like Strick 9 and Big Money, but better.

Climb the nice corner and crack to a bolted anchor about 25 meters up and lower.

Or, for the really adventurous, you can continue above the belay as Day Dreaming is the first pitch of the 3-pitch route,

Day Tripping

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Day Dreaming

Foxfire

The Hangover Problem

Dragon's Wing

Twin Cracks

Cooler Than Kissing

Tinker's Toy

Blister in the Sun

Quantum Mechanics

Scared As a Virgin

Day Tripping

Continue Day Dreaming to the top, up the obvious corner system (p2: 5.10 hands/fingers, p3: 5.8+ fist/OW/squeeze). Walk off to right, or rap from trees (no anchor, 2 ropes?)

This is a great introduction to RRG old school trad climbing. There are no fixed anchors, most first timers get mixed up in route finding and there is enough novelty to make you want to go back. Be aware that yahoos inhabit the summit and occasionally rain down detritus on to unsuspecting climbers. Helmets are good. Technical crux is the first fifteen feet, but you can cheat on the large hardwood. Route finding cruxes abound, most notably the second and third pitches. On the second pitch traverse the ledge ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT END and climb up the slab. On the third make the unlikely airy traverse LEFT on the next ledge. I've climbed this route more than 10 times with a new group of partners each time. It never gets old.

DO NOT USE THE ROCK TO RAP/LOWER/CLEAN. Use the fixed gear on the left.

Climb the clean right crack to a ledge before tackling the small, flaring roof.

There is a top-rope/bailing anchor about 2/3 of the way up the route. Please do not use the rock that is slung with tatt. As of 3/19 when we loaded the rock it began to shift and looked as though it could come out. My climber saw some of the smaller rocks cracking/crumbling.

This route is in the first obvious dihedral climber's left from Day tripping. At first this looks like a wide crack but does not climb as an offwidth or require gear larger than 4''. I don't really know if this route was previously named or any other information about it other than I was not the first person to climb it. It's two decent pitches on dirty but good quality rock to access the really amazing location of the dragon's wing ledge.

Pitch 1-  Leaving the ground is possibly the hardest moves, once up 15 ft or so many large plates, edges and crimps appear for the remainder of the dihedral. This pitch is about 60 ft tall and ends on a big ledge with a gear anchor.

Pitch 2- From the belay step about 30 ft climbers right to the margin of the ledge and peer around the outside of a huge boulder leaning up against the cliff. Locate a thin crack about 5 ft out on the face of this boulder that leads up to a ledge. Climb the boulder for 15 ft or so to a ledge (top of boulder). Then move into the thin crack system on the main face. Climb this crack and many face holds to top out on the to Dragon's Wing ledge. I recommend at the top of the crack traverse left a couple feet and use the aid of a tree to gain the ledge. This pitch is about 40 ft and is on nice orange rock.

A good route with a tough move at the crux and some endurance requirements for the top. It may be a little sandbagged at its traditional rating of 5.9+. But then again, 5.9+ is a traditional sandbag rating. I'd upgrade this to 5.10a, except in my experience, 5.9+ is generally harder than 5.10a... try for yourself.

Climb the right crack until the left crack is the easier of the two, then finish in that on to the top.

This route has great rock quality and with the exposure, position and view from the Dragon's Wing ledge this and Blister in the Sun are well worth the trip up to this ledge!

Start in a Right leaning flake for about 15 ft and transition through face climbing horizontals for 20 ft or so, then briefly move into a water groove like crack then back to face climbing on huge horizontals, jugs and plates to the top. Good rock quality, very clean for how few climbs it has likely seen, surprisingly good gear for a face climb.

Thin holds for the first 20 ft or so and then big plates and horizontals for the rest of the route. surprisingly well protected for a face climb. Very good rock quality, a bit dirty, I don't think it's been climbed much in the past 40 years. This climb shares the same starting holds as Quantum Mechanics.

Climb a well featured right facing flake until it ends at a bulge, swing through and follow the face to the top. Fun moves on great rock with an amazing position.

Same start as Tinker's Toy. Climb thin holds for the first 20 ft. Gain a nice rest then move through another section of small crimps to big plates and jugs for the rest of the route. A bit dirty but very good rock quality. Very cool position, exposure and view from the ledge on this route. Good gear in horizontals.

Harder near the bottom of the route to big plates up high.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle Point Buttress