This perfect splitter in bullet rock cracks the undulating underside of an immense boulder. The first bit isn't bad, and warms you up for the mean crux middle section which begins at a jug right where the crack gets very steep, and stays with you until the crack pinches down briefly to hands.  After this there is another jug, followed by another wide lesser crux section. The crack keeps switching between roughly forty five and sixty degrees, and its offset keeps swithching back and forth from left to right, so it is always throwing something new at you. Where the block meets the slab, just step off.

The start is a narrow tunnel, but the rock behind you is only problematic for one bit right where it gets steep. There is another rock near the top right where it goes to hands, but it's barely noticeable to get around if you use the right sequence. Outside of the low nature of the boulder in those two places, this crack is absolutely world class. Though this thing doesn't sport any particularly hard moves, endurance over the distance proves the overall crux.

Monsters Incorporated

Spandex (aka Cardiac Arrest)

Ah Fair of the Heart

Beta Blocker

Heartbreak June

Atherolichenous Plaque

Hypotension

The Devil in Disguise

This has two alternate starts. Either climb the start of Route #3, and cross over right halfway up; or start directly below the principle line. You'll find good jamming up to the thin, overhanging roof, and belay on gear. Bring your second up to the belay, and then insert a series of thin wires and/or Lowe Balls out the dicey roof on thin fingers and fantasy feet. Turn the daunting roof, and continue up the groove to the top at a lesser grade. Belay on gear.

Descent: use 2 rap stations described elsewhere or walk off towards the west.

Route #2 on the topo.

This short pitch is packed with a lot of fun and varied crack climbing. Harder moves are separated by good rest stances. There is no distinct crux.

Beta Blocker is an unusual, mostly traversing pitch. A few offwidthy moves lead to the wide hand crack of

Hypotension

. Leave this crack almost immediately, breaking out right and following the obvious horizontal crack. The traverse has good feet. The crux is getting around the funky corner at the end of it, but there are some good hand jams to be found there. Continue up easy hands to a big ledge.

This climb is on the prow to the right of

Beta Blocker

. Begin the climb with a very thin face move boulder problem. Behind you is a large tooth that can serve as a bombay chimney. Move out of the chimney, around the block and into a thin, left facing corner. A lieback to crux sidepulls with sparse pro leads to another crack system to the left. Follow this to a slab that joins with

Beta Blocker's

hand crack.

The rap station is on the top on an obvious ledge. There is NO fixed gear on this route save the rap station.

This route climbs an offwidth to fingers to handcrack through a roof. More traffic will keep this gem lichen-free.

Begin in a challenging offwidth slot using a BIG piece to protect yourself (see shot of Tim Hume at the rather voracious start). Move up into a very engaging handcrack of lesser grade leading to the obvious roof. Turn the roof with a high pucker factor, placing a #3 camalot at the lip and continue up the groove to the top. Belay on gear. Descent is by rap rings at the very easternmost top of the formation, or use a new rap station atop Heartbreak June.

An offwidthy start leads to a steep, wide (#3+) hand crack. Halfway up the angle relents significantly and the crack widens to #5 for a while. Finally a couple of nice hand jams end the pitch.

You cheated...you lied...but I got wise...you're the devil in disguise.

This is route #2 on the topo.

Start about 15 feet right of route #1 (on the topo) encountering a popcorn granite bulge, and get some pro in quickly, then ascend a respectable handcrack to the obvious roof. Situate yourself sideways, and delicately crab up the intimidating 30 foot maw above on thin edges and nubbins. Caution, there are teeth in here. Belay on gear at the top. TAPE UP, and wear long pants!

Descent: use two rap stations, one at the easternmost top of the formation or another atop

Heartbreak June

. Alternatively walk off to the west.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Heartbreak Hotel