climb the yellow streak just left of spoonman, past a low crux

Yellow Finger

The Monkey Swing

South Side Slab

Spoonman

Unknown 5.10-

Pocket Pool

Forget About It

Nightcrawler

Jello Wars

Hangar 18

Pot Belly

Thinking About It

Caught in a Mosh

Fire and Ice

Night Cap

Crimp Tuff

Maxwell's Hammer

Stepping Out

this route is the left route in the crack/chimney left of spoonman.   climb up to a thin hard move right and finish at anchors of yellow finger.

Start on sloping ground right of the first bolt. Pull up and then do a strenous lieback with your right hand while your left makes a BIG reach for a pocket (this move is much more difficult if you are under 5'10''). Continue traversing up and left on pockets. After the second bolt, the difficulties ease. Catch your breath and head to the top. 

  The direct start looks like hard 5.12.

Harder moves in the beginning then the climbing eases up after the second bolt. Avoid the temptation to go right into Spooner Crack. 

Same general start as 'Forget About It.'  Goes left up the ramp.  A bit contrived for first few bolts.  Third bolt route goes vertical.  Crux section bolts 3/4.  5-6 total bolts. Same anchors as 'Forget About It.'  Still a bit dirty. 

This is a pocked short route.  It is a bit overhung and pretty pumpy.  There is a rest with a possible knee bar half way threw but otherwise the route is pretty sustained.

This is a great, crimpy, thinkpiece!  Avoiding the big flake to the left makes this route an 11a. The beginning is easier up to the last couple of bolts.  Find the little crystal hold with your left hand, get your feet high and crank your ass off to the top.   

Near the easily identified Pocket Pool, Nightcrawler is the left most of three intersecting bolt lines. 

  Battling a barn door situation while hanging on to a half pad pocket, making big moves between vertical slots, then juggling assorted incuts and edges along with the occasional jug to eventually meet up the Pocket Pool finish, you will probably have your hands full on this sustained route. This route is sequential and fun to puzzle through, so it is worth the effort. I have stuck with the book rating, although the true grade may be a biiiit higher than indicated.

Climb up huecos to an overhanging face. Sharp rock.

This is the route on the west face that has a rock stack below it. Start with your hands or hand in the pocket. I used the rock stack to make the first move. This is the crux. The rest of the climb is pretty moderate. I do not know if the .11b rating is with or without the rock stack. With the rock stack it is still one hell of a move. Beware of sharp rock. I got a huge flapper from the first move. The rock was sharp enough I didn't ever feel it happen.

climbs over the belly looking roof just right of spoonman and left of hanger 18. 

Start at a rising seam that trends leftward and provides a good undercling, move through pocketed slab to the right of the bolts. Trend left of the bolts around bolt 2, then move straight up to the ring anchors atop Maxwell's Hammer.

Climb sharp finger pockets, go left of the two huecos, then eventually join Pocket Pool and finish at bolted anchors. Lower off.

Fire and Ice is good face climbing with pockets, pinches, rails, huecos to moves that get progressively bigger and harder all the way to the anchors. The line follows a blunted arete feature.

This route is pretty straight forward.  Follow the bolts just left of the large crack on the south face of Spooner Crag. There are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.  You can stop there or proceed over the top to a brand spanking new set of stainless hangers to the first belay.  From this belay follow the bolts to the summit over a small 12-18 inch overhang.  You will find a nasty old rusty piece of crap metal chunk and a nice new bolt to absail from. Throw your rope over the back side of the climb (the side that you did not climb up).  You are able to reach the bottom over the back with a 60 meter rope.

Start on the flake below the bolt. Place small pro in flake. Smear to bolt. Smear to small roof. Undercling left. Place 1" pro. Climb vertical crack out of small roof. This is the crux. Climb up the crack on the ramp. Place 1-2 1"-2" pro over 30 rampy feet. Two hangers to rappel or TR from. Can also access a TR to Forget About It (5.11a; 5.10c variation) or Thinkin About It (5.10c/d) just to the climbers left of Maxwell's Hammer. Great route for a first trad lead!

Start hands in pocket below 1st bolt. Move left and over the bulge to second bolt. Bulge is the crux. A few more moves gain the third bolt. Third bolt to the anchors is slaby. Great warm up!

The main crag is hidden in the trees, a small formation of volcanic tuff about 100 feet tall. Two sides yield about a dozen moderates. Southwest face is more challenging. South face is a little easier. Mostly sport climbing and one trad 5.8 with one bolt. Can climb in winter, gets great sun, may have snow on the ground. 

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Rock