Start standing, matched on the shelf about eight feet or so left of 'Spragueasorus'. The crux comes in the first couple of moves, first with a high step/heel onto the shelf and then using a tiny crimp (and possibly a smaller one below first) to set up for a committing move to a good hold. This move is the hardest physically and is made somewhat harder by the prospect of falling backwards onto the sloping boulder below. From there, the climbing ease somewhat in difficulty, but the last move to the upper lip is a committing one high off the deck over a very bad landing. Failing to latch the lip would not be good...  

  If you can get past all of that, and summon enough courage, this climb is defintely worth doing. It would be one of the best at the Blackjacks if not for the poor landing. 

  (descrpition by Christian Prellwitz)

Nowhere Man

Niflheim

Satan's Choice

Pyramid Power

Waiting for No One

Summer Daze

6B Crawford

Spragueasorus

Spragueasorus Arete

A technical face climb utilizing some nice crimps. Sit start with a small right hand sloping edge, and a sharp edge a few feet to the left for the other hand. Find some good feet and figure out how to move up to improving edges. Topout with care above the sketchy landing.

From the crimp rail start of Pyramid Power, head up and right onto two small edges, then make a very powerful move to a sharp jug. Hold the swing, then celebrate because the finish is a stroll on great sculpted holds. This is a beautiful line on great rock that takes serious finger strength to pull off.

There are a number of different ways to do this problem, and they are all pretty hard. Start sitting on the obvious crimp rail and head up and left. Some people use the small crimp in the horizontal crack, some people use a shallow undercling, and everybody uses the unusual pyramid shaped hold to eventually grab the jug on the arete and top out left. A great problem and one for which it may be beneficial to be a little shorter for a change.

Start standing just left of the right arete using a crimp and sidepull. Work up and right on crimps before topping out on good edges. Crux may be avoiding the slab behind you.

A cool problem requiring good footwork and a bit of commitment. The crux revolves around a right hand crimp once you emerge from the cave. Sticking the crimp and pulling through may seem challenging at first, but it's not too bad with some good beta. Although the pit seems menacing, it is unlikely that you'll fall into it after you emerge.

Start on the good jugs on the right end of the overhang and traverse left topping out on the left arete. This route involves core tension and foot work to keep it at the grade.  

  The route could use a little better cleaning but it is a good climb and should be climbed.

Ouch!   Crimp and power your way up this demanding face using deadpoints and precise feet.    The topout is huge (thank the goddess) 

  Way Hard for the grade(hence the V5+) 

Start on Spragueasorus, but instead of going up the crimps on the face, move out to the juggy arete and take it to the top. Probably one of the best V3s in the blackjacks.Could use a cleaning.

This unassuming boulder is home to four good lines, three of which are area classics, and all of which are stout. Bring your balance, power, and good skin.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder)