P1: follows left facing dihedral with plenty opportunities for gear placements (5.10b). When rock becomes chossy and crack less distinct step right and clip first bolt and continue right to bolted belay (100 ft). P2: (5.10c) climb to slightly overhanging rock right side of a water streak passing 1 bolt on the way to a protectable watercrack. Pull over onto a huge apron and belay. 70 ft. P3: (5.6) climb up and slightly left following a major line of weakness over clean rock passing one bolt to a bolted belay (about 120 ft). Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue topo B page 110. 

Strange Force

Polish Photo Route

Arching Crack

Arete

Tricks are for Kids

Rain Dance

Gavin's Straight Up

Wandering Soul

Sportholio

Child's Play

Domes Do It

Bowling for Bunnies

Slippery Gold

Slippery When Wet

P1: (5.10a 80 feet) follow widely spaced bolt line right of Child's Play. P2: (5.11a 90 feet) continue up bolted line with some gear placements to the right of the overhanging dihedral, ending at top anchors to P2 of Child's Play. Rappel off about 190 feet. PG = most likely not a suitable lead for climbers transitioning from gym to outdoors climbing. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue topo B page 110.

Begins at a bolt located about 40 feet west of a large snag or its remnants. Climbs the buttress as directly as possible placing gear,climbing becomes easier as you go. Rappel from 2 bolt belay (approx. 90 feet). Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue topo B page 110. 

Climb the open-book using the crack for protection (5.9). Follow the Arching Crack past the chimney, then traverse below the roof and out to the Slippery Gold first pitch top anchors. There is a 5.10c crux involving undercling at the off-width chimney.

Pitch 1: At the Arching Crack follow the bolt line up the right side arete. A bear hug crux (5.10a) is located at third bolt with a 5.8 variation bypassing the crux by stepping left into the Arching Crack. The last 15 feet of the first pitch requires follows a thin crack placing gear (5.8). Pitch 2: follow bolts to top of the Lower Apron angling left (5.9). Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue Topo page 117.

Third bolt line left of the large watermark. Follow bolts up slab ending with a low angle runout. Shares top anchors with "Domes Do It". Scramble off or rappel from anchors. Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue topo C page 112. 

Boulder 10 feet to first bolt and follow bolt line through a bulge to top anchors. Crux is at beginning 10 feet and over bulge at third bolt. Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue. topo E page 117. 

Pitch 1. 5.10+, 60m   Start on ramp 30 up hill from 3 Pines. 20 to 1st bolt. At 3rd bolt, move to flakes. 5 bolt has no hanger. Sling with wire nut. Move left. Small runouts through the 6th, 7th, 8th. Optional #1tcu.   Move right onto slab staying right through 9th & 10th. Traverse right on sidepulls through 11th.   Optional #3tcu before mantle. Dont fall here. Really. Clip bolt then climb corner. Optional #3tcu. Last bolt on top of block. Move left to anchor. 

  Pitch 2, 5.6, 25m   Reverse last moves. Step across gap. Climb up & right through easy chimney. Clip bolt on face then move right onto face. Small gear on face plus #3cam Climb up & right to ledges. Bolt & gear anchor. 

  Pitch 3, 5.9, 60m   Move up & right around big roof. Pull through smaller roofs. 3 bolts. Runout through pumpkin patch with 1 bolt to large ledge (5.4) Climb dihedral with 4 bolts. Step out of corner to slab. Great climbing. Then final moves to ledge. 

Climbs bolted line right of the watermark.Crux at 2nd bolt. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Volume 3: Rogue Topo C pp. 112.

P1: Runnout to to first bolt, once on follow boltline to belay anchors at base of a large dihedral (5.10a). Rappel off or continue on 2nd pitch (5.10c). P2: (5.10c, 165 feet). climbs up and over the overhanging dihedral roof using the two fixed bolts and placing gear including a critical #2 Camalot, then continue on to the next belay anchors. Rappel off is about 165 feet. Refer: Rabbit Ear's East Ear. Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue Topo B page 110.

Forth boltline left of the large watermark. Consistent 5.7 slab climbing on small edges and pockets. Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: topo C page 112.

Second bolted line left of the large watermark. Mostly 5.7 slab climbing, curx (5.8-9) at third bolt with easier climbing a bit to the right. Follow bolts to rappel bolts or scramble off up the low angle slab. Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: topo C page 110.. 

First 25 ft unprotected 5.6 to 5.7, then clear a 5.8 bulge 30 feet up to reach the first bolt. From first bolt climb 5.9 using thin edges and pockets with a 5.10a crux at fifth bolt. Rappel or scramble runout 5.9 to top.

First bolt line left of the large watermark. Crux is a slick 10 foot slab section beginning at the 2nd bolt. Rappel of rappel anchors or scramble off up low angle slab. Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue. topo C page 110..

The Rabbit Ears, although not a mountain in the classical sense gives a climber a good alpine rock experience. Two volcanic plugs push out of the earth and look like rabbit ears when viewed from certain directions. Several climbs per year occur to the summit, but the lower apron has many rock climbs. Routes range from 5.4 to 5.11. Small area to camp, 4-5 cars. Easy 5 minute approach to first ear. Rock is Andesite.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rabbit Ears (Rogue)