This well protected route is pretty straight forward on half descent rock with one interesting section moving left from the fifth bolt.

Stained

Chalk Wave

Westside Solitude

Elbow Therapy

Role Model

Zigzag

Unnamed (R of Chalk Therapy)

Wherever I May Roam

Adventurous 9904

Unforgiven Variation

Fall For Anything

Thieves Like Us

Chalk Therapy

Of Wolf And Man

Earthtone

Pocket Pool

My Little Pony

Pony Up

Cryptesthesia

Bits and Pieces

Stand for Something

Why Art Thou?

Confused and Disfigured

With the addition of more bolts the first pitch makes an excellent first sport lead.  The vast majority only do the first pitch as the second pitch is dirty and is essentially unprotectable.

This wonderful slab has good rock and fun moves all the way up. Though it is rated 5.8, the only 5.8 climbing is maybe a move or two shortly after leaving the ground. After that, the climbing just gets easier but stays fun the whole way. Expect big pockets and side pulls.

It starts up with easy climbing up to the third bolt, then the jugs become smaller crimps. Cruxy at 4th and 6th bolts. 

Start out the route with easy jugs and a crack to clip the first bolt. Continue up the slab with jug holds/pockets and good feet. The crux is at the middle of the route. Although it's been cleaned to some degree, the route is still new and be aware of lichen and choss. 

This mixed route starts by surmounting a detached rock to reach the first bolt. Cruxy vertical face climbing on solid rock leads you up to and around a blunt arete. Run out an easy slab to another bolt and the beginning of the hand crack. The crack can be painful(consider taping) but is very secure with plenty of footholds, like an easier version of Karate Crack. The crack turns low angle and wide, then a final bolt appears. Belay from the rap anchor up and right, hidden under a sage bush on a small ledge.

 Rappel with 2 ropes, or make 2 raps with a single 60m using the Westside Solitude anchor.

Sketchy start on loose, oftentimes crumbling rock. Off-width almost the entire way with enough solid face holds to make it almost enjoyable. Watch out for weak and loose rock! Plenty of cam and nut placements, but expect to push 1"-3" pieces unless you bring multiples. 1st pitch ends at slung horn; possible 2nd pitch for the more adventurous looks a bit harder but on better rock.

Tricky start and sustained 5.9 climbing, clinging sharp wavy holds and tiptoeing up near-vertical finish. Still relatively new with cleaning scars and small loose flakes. Great addition of another sub-5.10 moderate. Full shade until mid-afternoon.

A good sustained climb at the 5.8/5.9 level that makes for an enjoyable few hours.

 Start by climbing Adventurous 9904 which is on a large pillar. From near Asterisk pass the pillar looks partially detached. Shade in the morning, 5th pitch gives you sun past the first bolt; a well-deserved warm up in the cold months. 2nd-3rd, 4th-5th pitches can be linked using a 70m rope.

 Pitch 1: 5.8 Romp up on knobs past several bolts to the top of the Pillar and belay.

 Pitch 2: 5.9 Start by leaning over the chimney that separates the main wall and the pillar to clip a bolt then step across. Crux is right below the second bolt. Climb up and left to a belay anchor.

 Pitch 3: 5.9 Move up and left to a small ledge just above the belay and make an airy move onto the face. Climb up and left on knobs and pockets, airy and exciting! There is another bolted line that goes straight up a few bolts after stepping across, do not follow it. Belay at the base of an arete after about 60 feet.

 Pitch 4: 5.9 Make a few exciting moves up the arete before veering right and following an edge dropping away below your feet. The climbing eases a bit before reaching a belay on a low angled slab.

 Pitch 5: 5.8 Race up the slab and then finish on jugs on one final steep section of the headwall and belay.

Short but fun climb; first pitch of Wherever I May Roam. Stem your way up good knobs and edges to the top of the pillar. Start at a crack in the left-facing corner.

Climb a fun lieback crack on a slightly overhangging wall above the 2nd pitch of Wherever I May Roam. Once you pull over the lip, the steepness eases but the fun continues. Follow the bolts up to the base of a very overhanging wall on good face holds. Watch out of loose rocks at the anchor. This is a variation just before the traverse 3rd pitch of Wherever I May Roam, if you continue up No Pain No Gain (5.11 overhanging tips crack) you will merge back to the 4th pitch anchor.

Big Moves on big holds between the second and third bolts. Then moves into a slab.

Follow a mixture of knobs, jugs, and positive crimps from a balancy start in a stemming corridor to a vertical haul of a finish up a water streak.

Crux is at the fifth to sixth bolt where the rout gets started on the slab.

The crux is an off width chimney up high on the first pitch. It matters which way you face in the off width. The second pitch is a fourth class scramble up the scree to the base of a wall. Third pitch follow the path of least resistance up and right to the top. The only rout that goes to the summit of the Northwest Face Center. Adventure climbers enjoy the alpine setting-everyone else stays away.

Start on Stained for the first pitch (7 bolts).  On the second pitch climb up and past the anchors for Wherever I may roam to a set higher and left below a dihedral.

Expect long reaches to good pockets most of the way. mid-way up there are a few crimps and sidepulls wich is probably the crux but the real crux is the pump.

Cruise up this short wall with great feet and good hands on a low angle slab. despite it's low grade, it actually has pretty fun moves.

Pony Up sports fun movement on rock that's still questionable in spots.  The crux upper face is steep  and high quality, but the lower traverse over a roof can create some awkward fall potential for both leader and follower.

Start up the face on suspect nubbins to the first bolt then the rock improves and the edgy climbing begins. the crux could be around the fifth bolt or just shy of the fourth. depends on style. The route returns to suspect nubbins at the last bolt to anchors. the hard climbing all comes when the rock is good.

This route is less enjoyable than it counterpart to the left but it still climbs quality rock and has a fun finishing slab. It joins "why Art Thou" at the last bolt.

The crux is between the First and Second Bolt

Start by climbing Stained, then cut right to the tiered roof at the 5th bolt. A few exposed moves gains the roof, and four more bolts to the anchors. 

  This route can be top-roped by climbing the first pitch of Bits and Pieces to the left.

The Northwest side of the Smith Rock Group is home to some long forgotten relics from eras past and to some heavily traveled newer routes. The formation itself is impressive being one of Smith's larger walls but unfortunately the rock quality is not so stellar. Many new routes have gone up in this area, most notably Wherever I May Roam.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (6) Northwest Face