Varied, wide crack climbing to, then past, the triangular roof. If you own multiple #4 and #5 camalots, this climb is for you; if you don't own these fine items, this is your excuse. The climb gets plenty of sun on a winter day. No exotic plants were harmed during our ascent, but the crew was busy along the loop road that afternoon.

Lake Mead Exotic Plant Control Crew

Repeated Histrionics

Megamoto

A Karmic History of Rebirth and Suffering

"Those who do not learn history are doomed to repeat it." And if you choose to climb here, you might be doomed anyhow… 

  1) Start in a claustrophobic alcove. Climb the parallel cracks to the slot of sky; squeeze to liberation. Continue up the crack in the corner. Pull over a chockstone (rope drag happens here) and step to the back of a sandy corridor. Chimney and jam up the sandy slot; once free, up to a belay in an alcove on the right. 120’ 

  2) Follow the crack/corner up, into, and through the overhang, then past a bomb bay chimney to a spacious ledge with large blocks. 100’

Climb up and right to the huge perched block. Perch on the perched block and wrestle up into a crack system. At its end, step right and hug the arête to the ledge with blocks.

P1: Power up the steep finger crack on the right. Ride the crack to ledges. Move the belay up and right to the base of the obvious wide fist crack that narrows to hands and smaller as it bulges right. 100’ 

  P2: Up the crack; right around the bulge; “as the road gets tighter, things get better and better”; up the crack/chimney; when the chimney seems implausible, step out right and climb the black face to a spacious ledge with large blocks. 120’

The lump on the right entrance of Stick Gulley, essentially the south buttress of the Flight Path area. Quality climbing despite a bit of dustiness. Plenty of sun. Karmic History, Megamoto,  and Repeated Histrionics top out at roughly the same place. 30 feet of slings around a big block would enable a rappel toward Stick Gully with a single 60 meter rope. Otherwise, spiral around to the right on easy ground with rope drag potential to gain the summit. A 60 m rope will barely get you down from the summit in a single rappel toward Stick Gulley; a 70 m or doubles will spare the ledge dancing. 30 feet of slings/old rope to bolster the anchor might generate a warm fuzzy feeling. Approach ~30 minutes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Hog Wart