Pull into the scoop and climb out right on somewhat delicate holds until you reach a large hollow flake, then mantle out right onto the ledgy section that leads to the top.

Going directly up at this flakey section would lead to you pulling on some very dangerous holds.

Up From Below

Yéego

Blues Man

Flight

Failure to Plan

Gorillas on Horseback

I Believe in Swordfish

Fixin' to Die

Downclimb

Learned it In Lander

Exit Strategy

Exit Strategy is an interesting problem, and also a hilarious party trick.

Step into the scoop with the carved quote, and try to shuffle your feet and shoulder scum until you can reach a large hueco in the roof. Corkscrew/bridge yourself slowly out of the scoop/roof area to reach some flakes and head towards the top.

A rare overhanging pocket problem. The name means "Try Hard" in Navajo. Start very low under the northeast side on large looking small feeling pockets. Utilize more jugs, pockets, under-clings, and even a sneaky knee bar to find your way out to some small crimps above the overhang. The problem finishes in one last powerful "huck" to the lip. The mantle after is fairly easy.

Start low on a good edge and a pocket. Pull some incredibly fun moves on pockets with heel hooks out this steep section, topping out on jugs at the ledge. Follow the ledges to the top of the boulder, or just jump the distance back down to your pad.

This problem is a less unique and fun start to Exit Strategy. Start below the flake hold on Exit Strategy on a pocket, and climb directly up.

Start as for Flight, go through Learned it in Lander, and continue on through the lip/rail feature all the way out to the top where it turns the corner. One interesting wow fact about the Big Waters is that the original Planet of the Apes was filmed here, hence, the name Gorillas on Horseback.

Start in a large jug, pull up and put your feet in whatever holds you want. Go through a couple jugs to a big move over a long blank section.

This boulder problem will feel very hard if you can't handjam.

Stand start on decent holds below a massive horn feature on the north side of the boulder. Step up and undercling the horn (seems pretty solid). Top out on relatively good holds.

This awesome route starts on the same holds as Flight, but when you reach the good jug and pocket, cross into the split pocket jug and start heading right into a cool sequence involving technical heel hooking and sequential pockets. Slap out the overhang on a couple sloping holds to a long move to a jug, then top out on good holds. This is a shorter, less committing variation of Gorillas on Horseback.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. Begay Boulder