This completes the right side of the W. I am not sure how to actually rate this thing, because it is so short.  It has 4 bolts - 2 bolts of 5.12 to 2 bolts of V10, so what ever that equals. Get ready to get your campus finger lock on!!!!

The Westside Connection

The Pimp Chimp's Crimp

Paper Planes

Heart Shaped Box Boulder

Jugular

Metallica Monday

Random V6

The Highwayman

Horseshoes and Handgrenades

Variety Show

Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum

The Road Less Traveled

This is one of the best short 5.12s in Colorado. Bouldery and thugy on good edges. It is the second route from the right. It climbs right meeting up with "

The Highway Man

".

Sit start with hands matched on a good crimp and a sloper (two red dots in picture). Lock off on the crimp, and move to an intermediate sloper way out right. Bump off the sloper to a crimp up high with a good thumb catch. Then fire up to the rail up top. Keep tight to control the swing here.

This route climbs the overhanging arete in the middle of the crag.  Sit start down low on two crimps and work your way up the arete all the way to its highest point, then downclimb left.  This route uses one crimpy undercling underneath the arete and the rest of the holds are on the arete or above it.  Very fun, and good landing, but it's tall so bring a couple pads.

There are several variations on this small boulder, it's good to warm up on.  Routes on this boulder range from V1 to V5/6 depending on which holds you use and which route you take.  Eliminate, but still kinda fun for how small it is.  The hardest variation starts on the right side on a crimp and moves across left without using the jugs at the lip to the slopey rail.  Get a left pinch and throw for the lip.  Fun, but contrived.

This is the very farthest left route on the crag. Sit start off of two jugs and work your way up through a crimp and jugs at the top, then mantle over the lip. Watch out for the tree behind you and the pointy boulder under the start. It is not very long, only six moves or so, but it is a good warm up for some of the harder routes on the wall.

This climb begins at the obvious far left side in a sit start, moving through the middle of the overhanging face.  It is easy to get lost on this climb - beta-intensive - I will post a photo soon.  It moves through to some really intricate pinch moves finishing out far right on top of the obvious finishing area.  Try not to get confused, and just have fun.  This is a local bouldering area with poor to phenominal rock qulaity. Even though this is a small area, there is a lot of oportunity for new boulder problems.

Sit start just left of '

Horseshoes and Handgrenades

' on a crimpy pinch, and move straight up through some slopers and good pockets.  Fight through the slopey holds at the lip to reach a jug. Mantle over and downclimb the slab to the left.

Climb the right-most line on the wall. This is only 4 bolts long, but it is very sustained and bouldery. There are multiple ways through the business. This climbs good rock, and it helps to be tall. It has long moves on good sidepulls and slopers. This was bolted by Josh Lieninger and Matt Lloyd.

This starts right behind the big cottonwood, and you should stay aware of this same tree as you proceed, cause if you come off on toprope in places you're headed right at it. (Don the hardhat, and tell your belayer to pay attention.) The rock is also questionable in places: two chunks came off as we climbed it, the first of which would have obliterated me (the belayer) if I'd been directly underneath the climber. So, the belayer should stand off to the left, which gives you a better view anyway...

Still want to climb this thing? Take the direct bouldery start up sharp stone, then follow the short crack system before striking up and left at the bulge, about 25 feet up. An alternate would be to continue right with the crack which soon becomes overhanging and probably a bit tougher than the line I've just described.

It is a cool climb, in spite of the little risks involved. This one hasn't been climbed much; there's no chalk evident.

Go for the onsight... but if you want a description, here goes: bouldery start, height-dependent. If you're not 6'3", it'll be harder to reach the out-of-sight jug. Then a short slab to the overhanging dihedral/handcrack. Rest here, then angle back in to the right, find a way through the crux, and up and over. Another short section awaits here before you reach the anchors. The climb is dirty in places. You could lead this trad if you want, though I don't trust the rock at this crag even 85%... feels like some of the cracks expand a tad.

Variation: from the rest, stay left and creep up underneath the roof, than traverse right. This way is easier and not 11c. Not sure about my ratings, anyway, so you're welcome to put in your two cents about how they feel to you.

P.S. if you're flailing at the start, take the slabby alternative to its right.

If you have bothered to drive all the way up the winding canyon and battle past the bikers riding the white line, then CLIMB THIS ROUTE!!!  Starta the same as for

The Pump and The Pendulum

, but after you clip the second bolt, start heading left into the small cutout and good underclinging jugs.  Head straight up for a tricky crux that might leave your pinkie screaming to gain a jug rest.  Then, fun climbing, including a deadpoint off two crimps (redpt. crux), leads out to the last bolt and over the roof.... A fun little mantle awaits you at the top before the anchors.  There are sustained 5.12 climbing with a couple hard moves in the middle, the technical crux isn't too bad, the redpoint crux is fighting the pump towards the end.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Deer Creek Crag