Really fun problem! A little harder than Electric Mexican, but much better.

Start as you would to do

Electric Mexican

(SDS is best), but instead of going up, go right onto the face.  Use a killer right hand undercling to gain a small sloper and match on it.

Then reach up for a sloping pinch (crux)and match on that.  Then a grovel maneuver over the top.

Super Mexican

Atomic Thrust

David

Rising Sun

Brown Eyed Girl

Seven Different Delusions

Kickin' It Like A Moose

Wu-tang

Goliath

Warmup Boulder Left

The Wrangler

Overganging Arete

Unknown Crack to Arete

Electric Mexican

Brown Eyed Girl Left

Warmup Boulder Right

Unnamed Inversion Roof

Moonsault

Niños

Squat

The Rusty Trombone

Gladiators

The Sparkling Touch

Blood Moon

Greenhorn Traverse

Unknown 5.9 Dihedral

Remnant Militia

Start up the crack system below

The Wrangler

, and traverse left to precarious face (protected by single bolt) to the base of the 20' offwidth roof. Traverse into the roof and climb out the dual, flared finger/hand cracks within the wide roof. Exiting the roof is more awkward than your average offwidth. There's a bolt at the base of the roof, so that the route can be done as two pitches, and it also serves as a directional.

Start by pulling into the hanging offwidth/squeeze chimney. Finish with 3 bolts of face climbing on flakes to a 2 bolt anchor with rings.

Just left of the two big Otis boulders is a smaller boulder with an interesting little inclusion on the face.

Work up this short slab to the top - not great but worthwhile if you are there.

Rising Sun is a fantastic route that packs a little punch. It features some interesting and spicy face climbing but primarily consists of tight hands and fingers. The rock quality is great with a few areas that will clean up with more traffic. Roof Ranch is stacked with high quality routes, and this one is right on par!

This is a fantastic boulder problem - the best at Roof Ranch and one of the best in all of Vedauwoo!

Sit start with a campus move right off the ground - big reaches on steep stone to good incuts follow. A final tricky move to a good horn follows.

I have seen ratings from V4 to V7 depending on the precise path taken. I have settled in the middle for what I think it is.

This is the left line of the two bolted sport lines. It has very technical climbing most of the way up, with a few exciting moves a ways over bolts. There are places on the route, however, where you can clip the next bolt simply hanging in your harness from the bolt below, but this route is pretty tough, and I think most will appreciate the generous bolting. Both of these lines are very aesthetic and technical. This route is even a little overhanging. Props to the FA for picking out these gems. If you are short, or hanging the draws on the anchor, you have to do a pretty exciting mantel at the end of the route.

Start in the crack that leads into the left-leaning, left-facing chimney/offwidth. Exit the wide crack, and head straight up into the right corner to the topout. Belay from and walk off to the left back to the route base.

Start on a decent pinch on the blunt arete under the right side of the roof. Crank out and left through some really fun compression moves to top out on the far left of the roof.

A short but steep little problem, on the backside of the boulder with David on it.

Start under the boulder on a seam and crank up and then mantle to the top.  In addition to the moves, a  secondary challenge is provided in keeping your rear off the ground - if you fall you won't fall far.

Climb the left crack around the corner from the cool

5.9 Dihedral

.

This is a thin crack leading to a hands to chimney roof, with possibly the most awkward exit in all of Vedauwoo.

Climb up the arete just right of the 5.11+ inversion crack.

Climb the finger-sized crack with slab moves to a jug, then run up the slabby, lichenous arete. The grade is just a guess. If anyone has details on this route, please comment.

This is a nice problem in the Otis area of the Roof Ranch, up at the top of the hill.

Start with a right hand on the rounded arete and a left hand on the vertical seam.  Then slap your way up to the top - one tricky move, and then it is in the bag.

This route starts from the campus of the

Brown Eyed Girl

, V4, then goes left on crimps and finishes directly above the start. I have also seen a start done from the holds furthest right under the cave and heel hooks.

This is the right of the two cracks. It is also a good warm-up.

Sit start in overhanging roof with legs in the crack. The crux is keeping your back off the ground. It is a true lowball.

Moonsault is a sandbag, and it is classic and spectacular. This is the double roof on the right formation. Pull the first roof on the obvious crack on the left and the second roof on the proud crack splitting it in two. The second roof is harder than the first. This is a very beautiful and proud line that sees very few ascents.

SDS on the right side of the Electric Mexican boulder face (north side of the boulder). Start matched in the crack/arete that separates the two boulders and using the "foot stool." Reach up and match on the higher cobble then make the big move to the high sloper that is shared with

Super Mexican

. Top out. Good fun, especially if you have little children cheering you on.

This is the the beautiful offwidth roof thats about a hundred feet to the right of Moonsault.  The bolts are there because when Bob Scarpelli did this thing there was no kind of reliable protection that was big enough available yet.  If you use them, back them up.  Squeeze up a chimney to the base of the roof and power your way out the roof using stacks, face holds, and over the head foot and leg tricks.  Wild climbing.  Beautiful route.  One of the original offwidth roofs in the country.

The name is from the fact that it looks like a bare butt squatting person.  Guess where the crux is.

This is the best sport route that I have done in the Vedauwoo area, without a doubt!

Start off with some 5.10 moves on good holds until just after the 3rd bolt - then it gets difficult and dicey all the way to the anchors. It may be a bit hard for the grade?   Anyway, I thought it was fun but tough.

Beautiful stone!  It is fine-grained, with nice features and spackled with brilliant green-yellow lichen.

A nice short crimpy to slopey problem.  Start low on the obvious rail.  Work your way up and right to the sloping but fun topout.

This is one of Vedauwoo's hardest crack problems.  Start under the roof, using the inclusion on the left before the start of the crack as a foot.  Pull up, establishing yourself in the flared roof with your foot still on the inclusion, and crank out to and over the lip, topping out the slab after the crack peters out. This is a true test of flared jamming abilities, no amount of face climbing will get you up this.  Bring tape.

There is reputedly a V3/4 version which starts at the lip, which can be done as an invert problem, first done in the late '90s. For this variation, skip the first move, instead starting with the right hand at the lip and the left hand underneath the roof in the horrible starting flare.

Just up behind the Electric Mexican boulder, near the fence, is a big overhanging traverse.   Start on the left side of the boulder and traverse right.

The moves are laughably easy at the start but they get slopey and insecure toward the end.  Finish on a prominent green horn.

Bring a brush and brush the lichen off the finishing holds and this might gain a star and/or lose a V number.

Climb the finger sized lie back in the dihedral. There are two topout options, reach right to a jug when crack gets thin (see the photo) or go straight up. The straight variation is definitely a scarier boulder problem.

Sit start on sharp crimps. Go out right to big holds, then gain the lip by way of a sharp crystal and the arete.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roof Ranch