Five feet to the right of the route, Men with Cow's Heads, you will see a crack/seam. About ten feet off the ground is a triangular chockstone. Once you reach this, most people consider you to be over the crux. I found the opening moves to be rather easy. Above the triangular chockstone, wander up to a ledge, then pull a bulge with a hand crack on the left side. Once over the bulge you stand on a good ledge. Continue on up where there is a tricky step from the left side of the crack to the right side of the crack. Once there it's five feet to the top. You can sew this baby up.

Wet Pigeon

Taurus

Solar Technology

Hot Crystals

Anointed Seagull

The Labyrinth

Pocket Pussy

Obvious Chimney

Unwiped Butt

Self Abuse

Men with Cow's Heads

Ceremony

Men With Cow's Heads takes the right-hand (more or less straight up) crack of the prominent Y-shaped crack formation in the middle of the Atlantis Wall. (Solar Technology (5.6) is the left-slanting crack).This climb protects well and would make a great beginner TR or lead.

Another crack splits off to the left about 2/3 of the way up this climb. Vogel doesn't rate it as a distinct climb, but it goes at around 5.6+.

What is behind this route's name?  Hint: The name's origin has nothing to do with the route itself and everything to do with something nearby.

Near the right side of the central part of Atlantis Wall, look for a wide chimney (

Unwiped Butt

, 5.6).  The Labyrinth is the first crack to the left of the Chimney -- about 6' to the left.  Average climbing down low leads to some fun hand jamming up high.

Right in the middle of the wall, at its most accessible point (not that any of it is in any way inaccessible, but ...), there is a prominent Y-shaped crack formation.  Solar Technology and Men With Cow's Heads (5.5) both start at the same location, but Solar Technology takes the left slanting crack, while Men With Cow's Heads goes more or less straight up the right-hand crack.

Easy but fun.  A good beginner TR or lead.

a fun climb - steep face with some crack moves

nice steep face on good rock with a few crack moves

Climb the broken crack / face moves to a nice jamming sequence up high.

The route climbs through opening face moves leading to a section of thin and broken cracks just below the namesake crux. In the dark rock on the upper half of the route launch into a technical and balance sequence between a couple of pretty positive but reachy 3 finger pockets ending at a horizontal. Another body length of easier terrain will put you at the anchor.

If Unwiped Butt is the route left of the chimney, then this is the chimney. Otherwise maybe this is Unwiped Butt. Anyway, I’m only adding this so I can tick it for my 2021 log, which I’m thankful is almost over so I can stop ticking shit like this.

According to Randy's latest guide, this climb is not the chimney. It's the same start as Taurus. Move left at the horizontal and follow the easy crack to the top.

The climb starts on (or near) an exposed root at the base of the wall.  Thin face climbing past one bolt (about 12' up) to a thin finger/off-finger crack.

The lower section is harder than it looks!

Description

Protection

Routes in Atlantis Wall - Right