Up the face just right of the obvious crack on the left side. Small lichen covered edges with a tough hand foot match crux.

Thin slab

Center Slab

Right slab

Riverside Crack

Starts on the small ledge just above the high water line of the river and climbs easy slab to an overlap. Get above the overlap and climb the crack to the top. There are some decent face holds next to the crack as well.

Start in the center of the ledge running across the bottom of the cliff (just above the high tide line) and head up and slightly right on easy ground to a small overlap / bulge to a small ledge with a tiny pine tree. Climb straight up from here.

Straight up the far right side of the cliff. Bottom is very dirty but cleans up once you are on the steep part up top. Some good moves but short and lichen covered as with all the other routes.

These rocks are located on the south side of Sagamore Creek just over the Sagamore Bridge on Sagmore Ave.  There is parking behind the building and it is posted "Open from Dawn to Dusk".  The area is called the Sagamore Creek Headlands and a 10-acre forest owned by the City of Portsmouth.  The land was acquired in 2003.  It is pretty under the radar as even the Trust for Public Land does not correctly locate it on their map.

 The boulders reside in a beautiful shady, yet somehow wonderfully sunny pine tree forest.  There are two large(ish) rocks the first one is about 500 feet from the parking lot and back from the water.  The second is about 750 feet in and starts down at the high water mark. 

 While climbing, you'll most likely see a few harmless strangers, mainly young folk, passing by on their way to enjoy the shrubbery. The rocks are all what I believe to be granite, but I'm not a geologist so I can't be too sure. The holds on each rock are all secure, though some are sharp and need to be held with a sure grip.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Portsmouth (Fraggle)