This is the bolted line that starts above The Wisdom Traverse. There are currently (Q1 2007) chain draws hanging from the bolts in the roof section. To start, either run it out to the first, coldshut hanger or place gear for the first few easy moves. Straightforward, moderate climbing gets you to the roof transition where you have to deal with a crack and difficult clip at the first chain draw (first bolt in roof). A large cam can be placed here which is a good idea if you are a lousy crack climber. Now, you get to pull on to the roof, clip the next hanging draw and deal with a difficult boulder problem. This leads to a leftward traverse that is juggy and fun. Clip the last bolt and climb great rock up to the anchors. The moves past the last bolt are not hard but if you blow it, you will be taking a safe but BIG fall!

The Price For Fire

Thirsty

Gates of Splendor

Juggmo

Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route)

Morrison Solo

Sharpe's Right

Z is Last, But This is First

5.7 Rail Route

Dihedral Route

Local Motions

Unknown Slab route

Witness to Violence

The Nautilus Cave Pitch

Hogback Momma

The Tongue

Refusal to Boulder

White Crack Route

The Birds Don't Worry

Climb to a high first bolt and up through some moderate terrain. Then the route steepens significantly as you pull hero moves on (mostly) jugs to the anchor.

This is an old top rope (maybe??). When I found it, there were top rope anchors above, after speaking with rufas, sharpes arete is a few feet to the right of this line ( taking the overhanging arete )   This climb takes the left side starting up a easy 5th class slab to an obvious horn, then head right to the arete before tackling the face, a hard crimp move leads to easy climbing above. Fun but not classic.

(Update: for a while, it did not have chains and was missing an bolt, those have both been remedied.)

Scramble up as the terrain gets steeper, and then head into the tight chimney.

Head up the far right side of the black face. The route has lots of large jugs after the thin start section. Head up and left to get to the anchors.

Head straight up the black face of the dihedral. There is a thin section over the second small roof, the crux with crimp pulls.

This is a solo that starts on a steep hueco'd slab approximately 100 yards West of the Nautilus Cave. The rock has proven itself solid upon ascent, but the descent still has some loose blocks.  Be careful. This route can be looped or climbed to the top.  The loop downclimb is exposed. It is easy to walk over to the downclimb to the right of the cave.

This is a super fun but semi-dangerous lead. I'm sure this has been TR'ed a ton but doubt it's been led. Start on the right side, plug some gear, and blast up and left, gaining the face and pulling some radical big moves on perfect edges.

Start under the overhang on the left side. The first bolt is a little run out but on easier climbing. Climb straight up to the first and second bolt. Then pull through a chimney feature near an old bird nest. After that, do a fun, 'very' exposed traverse for 20 feet to the prow. Then run it out up the ridge to the top for a chain anchor.

Start up at the base of the black and white dihedral. Head up and then take a hand rail ~15 up to the left. After the rail, go straight up to chain anchors (installed 4/21/12).

Lead up into the Black and White dihedral. Head up until it kicks you out right. It is easier if you head right with high hand and bad feet (compared to a little lower with good feet and bad hands). Then head back up when the roof ends.

To the left of the bolted

Nautilus

pitch. Hard start, easy finishing moves. Slightly overhanging start. Theres a big bush halfway up, so stay right. Good for beginners.

This climb is fucking awesome, dynamic and powerful. It has an easy approach and good warm-ups nearby.

Climb the obvious and gnarly looking roof that's visible from the road. The meat is basically a boulder problem starting at the base of the roof and finishing with 2 large moves just above the arete. It is maybe 12 moves long.

The grade is approximate. The moves are big and dynamic and harder than they appear at first glance.

Avoid climbing this route after a large rain, as it seeps a bit, and thus it could be prone to breakage (although everything is clean and solid when it's dry).

The first bolt it high, so be careful. Please don't leave any fixed hardware on this route (leaving draws on it while projecting is fine of course). When you're done with it, take it all with you. It's an eyesore, and like

The Price for Fire

, it bakes in the sun, so things get tattered quick.

Hogback Momma is an old school TR that climbs out the incredible, overhanging roof.

Left of the

5.7 Rail Route

is a set of discontinuous roofs, the first containing a large, tongue-shaped formation.  Climb up through the tongue roof, a roof through a crack, and then into the final dihedral.  There is a nice horizontal at the top that takes larger cams.

Start on the incredibly soft "38 Special" boulder problem (V3), and continue into a obvious dihedral above. From the top of the dihedral, an obvious hand crack leads to the topout. This is a great route for beginning trad climbers.

Start at the base of the

Dihedral

, and climb up the crack the is going straight up the white vertical face. Go straight up, and on the left are the anchors.

Follow a dihedral up into some steep moves on jugs. Finish on a ledge at a two bolt anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Morrison Routes