Pretty thin start for a 5.6 and the first bolt is way off the deck. Balance up to a mono pocket, then move onto much easier ground after the first clip. Low angle, big pockets.

The tree in the picture is dead now and there's no anchor at the moment (2012), though we'll probably put one in. To get back down, walk across the ledge to use the anchors on one of the other routes.

Rasta Man

Access

B Cups

Under Estimator

Brother Jugs

I Like Big Tits

Roy's Run

Any Which Way Will Go

Flake Out

The Day I Got My Braces Off

Rarely climbed corner used to access ledge between lower and upper walls.  Mostly 4th class.

Easy solo to the top finally put a few bolts in to be safe. Crux if first 10 feet then super easy 5th/4th class run up to set TRs on other routes.

Follow incipient seam on good edges and pockets through first two bolts. Cruise through middle section on solid B cup sized pockets. Finish upper bulge using trusting friction feet.

Cruise up the slabby prow to the 3rd bolt, then prepare for the mental crux. Levitate way above your bolt on largely featureless rock until you can grab the dirty ledge and escape. There's a 1-bolt anchor on the wall above.

Start just right of "Flake Out", the prominent crack system on the right side of the lower central wall.

Pockets, edges and some friction get you to the anchors. Good intro to low angle slab

Another thin balance fest, only this one has crap protection.  A rusty quarter inch bolt at 25', followed by the same about 15' higher (but missing hanger), and finally the "belay" bolt near the top.

Fun to top rope.

This route is on the Upper Wall, directly above Roy's Run. Fun route. Sustained climbing from bottom to top. Well bolted.

As mentioned in Rakkup guide, the top anchor is poorly placed, up and to the right of the line. This spot also happens to be the prime location to maximize rock fall. Much safer placement would have been directly above last bolt just below the wall’s rim. Also, lots of old webbing and biners on anchor. All unnecessary so bring up a knife and cut away. As designed, directly thread quick links on bolts and rap. Rope pulls fine. Be careful. But all in all, this fine line deserves a better anchor. It should be replaced.

To rap from ledge, move right to chains at top of Under Estimator.

Climb the leftward trending zig-zag fold feature until it ends, then traverse right to the anchors on Brother Jugs. (a bit run out). Interesting and fun - a great warm up.

Balance on itty bitty edges and nubs up through first two bolts. Cruise the upper section of shallow friction pockets to the final bulge. Good edges get you to the ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Central