The Sleeper is an unassuming 20 foot offwidth inversion roof.  The rock is a little crusty and the gear a little funky, but welcome to Sedona.  A short boulder problem gets you to the belay.

The Sleeper

Sundeck Spire

Aeolian Hollow

Sinagua Spire

Aeolian Hollow climbs a chimney feature through a layer of incredibly cross-bedded sandstone to a delightful perch above Boynton Canyon. There is a fantastic view of multi-storey cliff dwellings from the top. Pair this with Sinagua Spire for a swell afternoon.

 Start at the saddle, working your way up the varied crack system on loose ledgy mudstone. Jam through a handcrack and huddle into the depths of the hollow. Climb up and out through the featured offwidth roof (crux). Continue up the fun easy groove tube to a two-bolt anchor on the left pillar with a luxurious bench seat.

 Rappel 100 feet from chains.

 FYI: This formation is actually a small detached pillar - not a spire, per se, but an independent summit nonetheless. On the ground-up first ascent, I led the short second pitch to the summit. It was a fun 5.8 ish face sequence with sparse pro, on the left side of the arete. I didn't leave an anchor and elected to downclimb the pitch.

Dinky little spire with loose moderate climbing, highlighted by an unforgettable topout. A fun partner to Sinagua Spire.  

P1: Grovel up a strange low-angle gully (4th class) to a juniper belay at the notch. 

P2: From the notch, climb the featured east face (5.6). Some of the pro is questionable, but there's a bolt here and there to help out. Finally, the main attraction: pull the roof on glorious patina jugs, a wildly acrobatic finish that lands you atop this aptly named summit. 

Rappel: 90 feet straight down to packs.

Short moderate spire with some good parts and an exciting topout.

 To find the base of the route, walk through the notch on the east side of the spire and traverse a vegetated ledge until a stack of blocks below the obvious flake/chimney system.

Pitch 1: Varied crack system, with a bit of everything. Climb short twin cracks into the flake system, scamper through the dusty chimney (no pro, but virtually impossible to fall out) to a nice ledge. Ascend the short, beautiful thin-hands splitter (crux) to another ledge, then romp up a fun ramp to the two-bolt belay. (5.8, 100 feet)

Pitch 2: Scramble clockwise for a ways, scamper up an easy ramp and finally pull the juggy roof. (5.8, 60 feet)

Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Cool formations on east side of Boynton Canyon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sundeck Area