This was one of the initial routes in The Dungeon that caught my eye. It took a lot of effort between Cody and I to unlock the climbing on this line. Much like Tanuki, the route doesn't look like much, but his magical shape shifting unlocks amazing movement.

This route tackles the steep angling crack system in the middle of The Dungeon. Steep and sustained is the name of the game. Big moves through jugs and locks leads you past a bolt and to a shake in the middle of the route.  Rest up and embark on a 25 foot long crux sequence of thin hands, finger locks, deadpoints, and knee bars.  Respect Tanuki's golden balls.

Tanuki

Sugar Mama

No Excuse

Rat Dance

5000 Candles in the Wind

The Number of the Beast

The Executioner

Front Stoop

Big Poppa

If and Only If

Happy Endings

Big Excuse (Link Up)

Implements of Destruction

No Poppa (Link Up)

Dungeon Traverse

The Uncertainty Principle

Unshackled

New Beginnings

Branching Out

Soaked in Sin

Ride Around the Block

Daedalus

Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up)

Backdoor Man

Light My Fire

Waiting for the Sun

Zed's Dead

Intolerance Test

Sugar Mama is a test of power with several challenging sequences that will leave you gasping for air as you battle the high elevation of The Dungeon! Begin with an interesting compression boulder problem to get past the second bolt and establish a good rest. From here, navigate the crux section, which involves powerful pulls and deadpoints to gain a positive crimp rail as you climb slightly left before continuing straight up past the last bolt.

Clip the anchor about halfway up the wall to tick Sugar Mama. There is an extension that doesn’t add any quality to the route, but could act as a warm down victory lap. The climbing to the first anchor stays dry even in a downpour!

No Excuse starts 8 feet left of

Soaked in Sin (SiS)

on a velvety pocket-jug below a bolt with a rap ring hanger on it -- this rap ring hanger helps with the torque that the first bolt experiences. Climb up to a roof, then power your way through a series of underclings, crimps, and slopers to a jug rest above at the 5th bolt. This boulder problem is in the V7/8 range, and it is nearly impossible to clip the 3rd bolt. I think the best way to clip the 3rd bolt is with a stick from the ground.... Just make sure you clip the 1st and 2nd bolt too to keep the rope out of your way while you’re cruxing.

Rest up at the jug, then layback your way past a few more bolts to another crux at the upper roof. This crux is probably only V4, but it feels really hard with a pump! Don't cheat yourself by escaping right to the crack on

SiS

-- the upper face crux is awesome! Lower from a shared anchor with

SiS

.

We didn't think anyone had climbed this route.  So I am putting it on here because it was quite fun and not a bad warm-up.  If someone has done this before, please correct me on the FA info.

Begin below a hand crack just left of

Ride Around The Block

.  Broken and somewhat wide terrain just left of the prominent chimney takes you to the hand crack. Climb the hand crack until it becomes easy to angle slightly left to a right-facing corner.  Follow the corner for a few moves.  Next, head up and right towards the tree belay placing three or four small pieces. This pitch is quite fun and has some satisfactory gear tinkering.

Starting just right of the Executioner, scramble up to a high first bolt, then cut right to a seam. Follow the seam into a chimney of sorts until it deposits you at a roof. Clip a bolt, pull the roof, then follow the hand crack above to an anchor that is shared with the Executioner.  The crux is passing the first bolt.

This is the furthest left route in The Dungeon. Follow bolts up and left to an awkward, steep crux to a pumpy finale.

This route is the best warm-up in the Dungeon.  Once you get past the rotten band down low, the stone is quite nice on this one.

Start by carefully climbing up some hollow rock to the first bolt, then face climb up toward the dihedral staying mostly right of the bolt line.  Fire the steep corner to a stance below the final roof with some natural protection. A bolt protects the moves to the roof crack, then it is all natural protection to the chains.

This is basically a direct, all-gear start to "

Backdoor Man

" that follows the overhanging, double cracks in pink rock between the regular start of "

Backdoor Man

" and "

Tanuki

." It packs some powerful climbing with bomber gear into about 40 feet and connects to "

Backdoor Man

" at the fourth bolt. It is definitely way harder than the standard start to "

Backdoor Man

" but also way cooler, at least in the first ascentionists' opinions :) Be sure to get your gear right, as the ground slopes up somewhat with the route, so any blown pieces could be bad.

Big Poppa climbs the overhanging, wave-like swell of black rock between

Zed's Dead

and

No Excuse

. Dave Montgomery originally bolted, cleaned, and attempted this amazing line, then graciously opened it up to friends in the community in 2018.

Stick-clip or climb up to a high first bolt and a big jug rest at bolt 2. From here, climb strenuously along the refrigerator-like feature to where the wall steepens, cop a kneebar rest (right kneepad—and long shins—helpful), then segue into either a powerful layback or compression sequence (V8) to a tough clip at bolt 5. More hard moves on crimps and sidepulls immediately follow—no resting here—through the steepest part of the bulge, leading into an outro that feels "easy enough" off the dog but takes some gumption on the link, as well as (at least for me) blowing off clip 6.

A jug rest follows, topped off by fun 5.12- on solid, textured rock to anchors.

This route felt very difficult to me, and I put a lot of days in, but my beta was probably screwy, I've realized, after watching two other climbers try it and having seen some kneescum technology emerge. The beauty of this climb is that there are lots of options for both hands and feet. However, given the angle and continuous nature of the crux section (~22 moves), they all feel difficult. No matter what, you'll need some try-hard.

If and Only If (iff) is a burly little number that climbs out the steepest part of the Dungeon. Climb steep corner-like features to a two bolt long crux sequence that culminates with a heartbreaking move to a thank God jug. Hold on through easier but pumpy terrain to the chains.

This is a pretty special route for me as it is one of my hardest redpoints, and I got it 2.5 months after my first child was born. Summon your inner Dad strength, and enjoy!

Happy Endings is fun and bouldery! This route starts by climbing the first few moves on

Branching Out

then going up and right with a fun 12- sequence as you climb into a pod by the third bolt. From the pod, execute a powerful boulder problem and crux to get to glorious jugs at mid-height. After getting a good rest on the jugs, crimp your way up and left on crisp edges to eventually join

New Beginnings

for the last 2 bolts and the shared anchor.

For a variation to the start, you can climb the first few bolts of

New Beginnings

, then traverse left into the pod. It doesn't change the grade, but it might be a little less reachy getting into the pod.

Big Excuse is an excellent link up of

Big Poppa

and

No Excuse

and one of my favorites in the Dungeon. Stick clip the first bolt of

Big Poppa

, and boulder up to the large jug flakes. Clip the second bolt of that route, then traverse right on good holds to the 5th bolt of

No Excuse

. Layback and up the corner to some hard moves near the top. It is possible to sneak right to

Soaked in Sin

at the top, but the best moves are left on the face. Take 12c if you stay on the face.

The bottom few bolts of this route is still cleaning up, but the stone on the upper half is great!

Climb angular features through a rotten band to gain solid rock with cool holds.

This is a link-up.

Start on

No Excuse

(13b), and climb through the crux to the fifth bolt. From the jug at the fifth bolt, traverse left on good holds to get to

Big Poppa's

third bolt. Rest up, then continue up through the sustained crux section of

Big Poppa

(13d).

The Dungeon Traverse is a juggy (or mostly juggy) voyage through the middle of The Dungeon. Begin on

Backdoor Man

, move right past the 5th bolt, and continue up above the anchor of

Sugar Mama

and through the bulge towards the top of the wall. The Dungeon Traverse is not a link-up of two routes but a separate, unique finish to

Backdoor Man's

start.

This route is a fun warm-up for the wall, with jugs for 95% of the climbing, aside from a short-lived crux moving through the short bulge higher on the route. The crux weighs in around 11+/12- and requires a strangely powerful layback sequence that finishes with a deadpoint to a jug.

New route alert: as you begin the initial traverse, please watch your step for small rocks or anything that might break off there. The route is still cleaning up.

Tree alert: there is a small tree growing out of the wall to the right of the crux. Let's try and respect the tree, and leave it in there. The tree also acts as a good separation barrier from The Dungeon Traverse's crux and the top of

If and Only If

. Staying just left of the tree keeps you on target for the crux of The Dungeon Traverse.

This route went in ground up and is one of my favorite lines at Staunton. It's a little spicy and definitely heads up from the beginning through the crux. Before climbing it, I thought it might need a bolt or two, but it turned out to go completely on gear! Climb the steep face using the two seams for gear. Step right and climb slightly overhanging, fun moves to a left-angling hand crack (crux). Follow the crack system up to a short slab, pull a small bulge, head right, and pull a final bulge to find a bolted anchor below a tree at the top of the cliff.

This is the first route left of the big overhang in the upper part of the Dungeon. The movement on this route is great, but the bottom half is still quite lichenous. Nevertheless, the climbing on the upper headwall is awesome!

Carefully climb up to the first bolt, then continue onward through an overhang. Clipping the 5th bolt with a shoulder length sling will greatly reduce drag. Continue up surprisingly steep jugs to a mantel move onto a sloping stance. Tech your way up the dihedral, and enjoy the gator skin finale.

This is probably my favorite route in the Dungeon. The pump is arm-numbing and the features are wild! While the crux is low, I have seen many of strong climbers punt at the last bolt. Manage yer pump!

Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, then follow a few more bolts up the overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left into the chimney and finish.

Cleaning Beta:

Don’t try to play chicken with a tree... the tree will most likely win. Clip your rope into one of the permadraws to avoid swinging into the trees while cleaning your gear.

Superb pumpiness on mostly good holds! Start just left of

New Beginnings

, and climb up and left through some 12- climbing to get to a huge jug. From there, trend up and left on mostly jugs to encounter a midway crux that is probably 12+ on its own. This route builds in pump the higher you climb until reaching a great rest towards the top. Rest up on the ledge, and keep it together for some fun 11- moves just below the anchor.

Soaked in Sin is both bouldery and sustained. The rock down low isn't pretty, but the climbing is fun and the rock gets better and better. Stick clip the first bolt, and crux your way past 4 bolts. Find a trick rest in the pod, clip one more bolt, then enjoy the steep fingers to thin hands crack to the chains.

This was the first steep route in the Dungeon and was originally done with 3 bolts.  I added 2 more bolts a few years later as the gear in the pod never inspired confidence due to the fractured nature of the rock.

Climb a highly-featured, easy face to a small dihedral with a large, detached block that forms a roof. Exit the roof/dihedral to the left (crux), and then head up more easy, featured rock on small gear to a slung tree. Bring micro-cams and be diligent figuring out the tricky placements or be prepared to run it out on the easier terrain up top. A 70 meter rope is required.

Daedalus is the newest addition to the Dungeon and should clean up well. In the meantime, the belayer should wear a helmet or at least stand to the left. The route tackles the steep headwall between

Unshackled

and

Waiting for the Sun

. Daedalus has multiple cruxes followed by well deserved rests, but don't worry, you'll still be pumped by the time you clip the chains. Stickclipping the high first bolt is advised.

This is a link-up.

This is a great way to finish

Soaked in Sin

if you didn’t bring any gear. Climb

Soaked in Sin

to the 5th bolt, then traverse right to the 7th bolt and third crux of

Intolerance Test

. Fight the pump to the top!

While the route doesn't look pretty, the climbing is super fun! BDM shares a start with Light my Fire then travels right along the juggy rail, on the far left side of the main overhang.

Stick clip the first permadraw and start on two underclings.  Don't clip the bolt directly above the first bolt, this is for the route

Light My Fire

. Boulder up to the first bolt then traverse right past 3 more bolts. Continue hand traversing the jug rail to the right until you can stand up and reach back left around the corner to clip. Alternatively you could climb straight past bolt #5, but the line of least resistance is to the right of the bolt line. Continue up the steepening wall above to a crux at the last bolt.

Light My Fire shares a start with

Backdoor Man

then climbs straight up the steep wall above. Catch a rest at the flake/ledge midway up, then traverse right to finish on a cool, orange headwall. Some of the holds are a bit crispy, but it should clean up with traffic. It's probably a touch harder than

Backdoor Man

.

This is a fun new line that should clean up well. With that being said, it's still a bit crumbly in spots. It's a hard route to grade as the crux is low and tricky. With the right beta, the crux isn't bad, but it might feel harder than the 12a's to the right otherwise. You decide if it's 11d, 12a, or neither!

Start on good holds and make big moves right then up to the roof. Crank through the roof with some trickery, and continue up to a huge ledge rest. Finish on a steep headwall/scoop.

Variation: It is possible to link the beginning of this route into the top of Light My Fire, but doing so takes up two of the more popular routes in the Dungeon.  Hence, it is not advised to do this on a busy day.

"Who's motorcycle is this?"

"It's a chopper, baby."

"Who's chopper is this?"

"It's Zed's."

"Who's Zed?"

"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."

This is one of the steepest routes at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Climb past 5 bolts then work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. Clip a 6th bolt, fight through a final crux and enjoy the swollen forearms. This thing is PUMPY!

Note: I've seen a lot of people climb this with a single #2, but doing so is extremely risky.  Staunton granite is not Yosemite granite and gear does pull on occasion.  If you can't hold on to place 2 pieces, consider pre-placing the gear or building up your endurance so you can climb the route more safely.

This route packs a punch, and is another must-do for The Dungeon! Begin with some steep and cruiser jug-hauling to get past a few clips, then power your way past back-to-back cruxes, with an okay shake in between. After surviving the first half, cop a quick shake, then execute a crimpy traverse out left to get established in the underclings and prepare for the upper headwall. Make the clip from the underclings, and thunder your way up the crack just left of the bolt line for a few more hard and pumpy moves before a slightly easier finish leads you to the anchor.

You can also add a little bit of difficulty by climbing the first few bolts of Branching Out to get to the first bolt of Intolerance Test and claim an ascent of the link-up, Branching to Intolerance.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Dungeon