climb lower head wall to large ledge (5.7) from here you have the option of continuing straight up over steep slightly overhung rock to the large ledge and belay anchors above (5.10a/b) or deviating right and up to the same top anchors (5.8). Rappel off, no chains.

Rocket Man

Dot to Dot

Twilight Zone

Spiritual Journey

Bambi Meets Godzilla

Wild Thing

Through the Lookingglass

Mad Hatter

Bloody Knuckles

Outer Limits

Bungee Jump

Legend of the Fall

White Rabbit

King Kong

Space Cowboy

Bonsai Crack

Cosmos

Refer to Umpqua guide topo Z, pp.143. Climb up lower head wall left of large overhang, then straight up to the a large ledge with belay anchors. Rappel off of anchors, no chains. Top anchor to Rocket Man 5.10b are within easy access to right (facing the rock).

From the 2nd anchor of Spiritual Journey climb the left wall and around the corner out onto a large face using the narrow "catwalk". You will find the 2nd anchor for Dot to Dot at the "catwalk". Once around the corner follow bolts from hueco to hueco topping out on the Southwest Ledge. Walk-off. This route typically requires a good brushing at the beginning of each season.

Very fun route but, because of its remote location relative to access this route has never received enough use to stay clean for long. Follow bolts up then right and around lower quality overhang to tie in with Outer Limits. Finish at ramp below Cosmos Wall or finish on Outer Limits (5.8). Because of its N aspect and tress shaddowing this route requires a fair amount of cleaning at the beginning of each season.

Follow the left trending crack, just left of the "{hourglass") about 70 feet to the prominent belay ledge ("Southwest Ledge") above. Two bolts protect the bottom half of the climb.  Once you're over the lip (5.9), the last half is quality crack climbing (5.10a).

Refer to Umpqua guide topo Y pp. 139. Fun slab climb up center right of the Lower Wall. Walk-off.

Refer to Umpqua guide topo Y pp. 139. The most popular route on the Lower Wall. Climb to the right side of the cave then follow the seam to top-out on the Southwest Ledge. Walk-off

P1: White Rabbit (5.10a) or Mad Hatter (5.8-). P2: climb the left facing, slightly overhung corner crack to the top belay bolts. Rappel off chains above Cosmos Wall.

follow bolts to belay anchors below the Looking-glass Crack and on top White Rabbit. Rappel from anchors, no chains or continue up Through the Lookingglass (5.8).

Refer to Umpqua guide topo Y pp. 139. A short steep friction slab. Thinly protected and supplemented with clips to route on right. Typically climbed as a toprope. Can become mossy without use. Walk-off.

From the first few moves of Cosmos, traverse left around the arete. The distinct crux comes half way up. Fun and exposed for such a short line.

Fun slightly overhanging climb with some challenging off-balance moves. Follow bolts to a large hueco,. From hueco angle left through crux move to summit. Rappel from chains above Cosmos Wall.

Refer to Umpqua guide topo X, pp. 137. Starts between Cosmos and Bonsai Crack following three bolts to the top. After 2nd bolt climb around left side of overhanging ledge and back to third bolt. Rappel of chains.

Steep fun short climb to access Lookingglass Crack, but tends to hold moss when not in use for long periods and requires a good brushing at the beginning of each season. Refer to Umpqua guide Topo Z, pp. 143.

Refer to Umpqua guide topo Y. Climbs the left ridge line to the madrone tree on the Southwest Ledge. Crux is last 15 feet. Can become mossy without use.

Follows a short flared to off-width crack to a windswept tree on top Fantasy Island. Crack tends to build up moss without use. Place sling low on tree if needed for directional and belay from top anchors above Cosmos Wall, but do not belay off the tree itself. Rappel off Cosmos summit chains.

Start at the end of the narrow ridge and make some tricky .8 moves. Use the holds on the arete and take in the view of the Cascade foothills to the west.

Fantasy Island is a beautiful little tower of rock that juts out from the top of  Reston Ridge. Because of the dramatic position of the spire, the somewhat short climbs have great exposure. The other rock formations of the Callahans can be seen in both directions from Fantasy Island. A great spot to watch raptors in flight above the steep forested hillside below.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fantasy Island