Kind of an awkward start, a romp in the middle, and some messy rock at the top. It's always a good thing to have more routes on the wall, even if this warmup isn't a classic.

Kemmerer by Sunrise

Gored By Inosine

Wild Horses

Two Kinds of Justice

The Devil Wears Spurs

Posse On My Tail

The Prospect

Jackalope & Boomslang

Pronghorn Love

Star Spangled Rodeo

Pronghorn Tramp

In Todd We Trust

Limestone Cowboy

Hip Boot Romance

The wall's namesake was one of the first routes established at the Wild Iris, climbing generally smaller pockets up the steep slab.  This is one of the longer routes on this end of the Main Wall, and the technical nature of the climbing makes it seem that much longer.

Begin immediately left of a steep chimney.  Its possible to avoid the reachy crux, dropping the grade a notch, by stemming to this chimney.  Either way, gain a nice jug near the first bolt.  Smaller slopey pockets continue up the slab where the footholds dwindle and good technique is required.  Near the top better pockets lead to the big ledge.

Goes up a blunt arete to the right of Two Kinds.  Bouldery to the third clip.  Start left hand on a large jug, go right left right up 3 small pockets to the right of the 1st bolt.  Then left hand to a side pull and again to a mono (actually a two finger if you can get your fingers in it accurately).  Next, cross over right hand to a large hueco and then gaston left to the upper left side of the hueco.  Clip bolt two here.  Then your right hand goes back to the previous left hand mono, left hand goes up to a slick, shallow 2 finger and huck for a jug out right of the 3rd bolt.  V6 or 7 to here, then 5.10+ to the anchors, passing one more bolt.  This is the beta, trust me.  If you don't do it this way it feels WAY harder.

The crux comes quick on this one, bouldering out of the belly.  Next you'll be battling for the vert 'slab' above.  By the time you've made the 3rd clip nothing will stop you from reaching the anchors.  The route climbing boulderer my find this more fun than my 2 star rating. Fun, powerful, tricky, movement on this short line.

This route is one of the best 5.10's on the Main Wall.  The first bolt is a little ways up there, but the climbing is positive and straight forward.  The climb is characterized by big moves on good holds.  At mid height you cut left for a few moves before moving back to the anchor.

One of the longer routes in the area, Posse On My Tail climbs a long rounded buttress of small pockets & edges.  This line is slabbier than it first appears.  Good footwork & balance are just as important as finger strength on this technical line.

Begin with long moves between good, deep pockets right over the bolt line.  Its probably possible to start on some of the Wild Horses jugs, but its not necessary.  Move up & left onto the slab.  Thin, devious moves between hard-to-see holds lead up & right.  A few invisible crimps lead to better pockets and easier climbing up the headwall.

This route starts in a left facing and leaning corner system.  Follow the corner system with jams and liebacks to the crux face moves above.  Heading straight up the face is the hardest, but you can miss some of the difficult moves by heading right and then back left.

I thought this route was enjoyable due to the crack climbing,  but some may find the jams to be a little sharp. Tape???

This relatively neglected moderate is a fine choice for those seeking something a bit more intellectual and less cruxy.  The holds on this line are not as large as similarly grade routes further East, but for those with good footwork & balance, this route will prove just as enjoyable.  One of the few low-end tens with no distinct crux, this makes for a good warmup if you don't mind squeezing into your tight slippers first thing in the morning.

Begin a few feet up the gully, below a series of shallow left-facing dihedrals.  Work these features up & right to the first bolt and an awesome sinker jug.  Head back left, and follow generally large but slopey pockets up the clean slab.

Pronghorn Love is one of the better 5.11- routes on the Main Wall, with interesting moves on nice rock.  This route, like many on the right end of the Wild Horses Wall, gets more shade than most routes on the Main Wall, and makes for a great warm up if you like to stand on your feet.

Ascend prickly tan stone via juggy pockets, making a rising left-ward traverse across the bolt line.  A nice introductory (non-threatening)right-hand mono move leaves to a good pocket.  Gastons & shallow pockets lead up the subtle prow, where dynamic sidepulls lead to an excellent clipping jug at the end of the primary difficulties.  Above the crux, the angle kicks back & good jugs lead up the 5.10- slab.

Start with a juggy mantle move, followed by some crimps and rails.  The grade lessens as you approach the top.

Low bulge with good shelves/jugs, trending slightly right to pockets above.  This is the direct start that shares a finish with Pronghorn Love.

Climb the dihedral and exit onto the black streaked face up high.  Overhanging start to powerful moves out of dihedral and again up high on pockets.  Stick clip 1st bolt.

Powerful thuggery to start followed by thin strenuous climbing, eases after the 2nd bolt.  Easy climbing leads to the chains.

Heard Skinner would boulder this in his trainers and down climb the tree!

Hip Boot Romance climbs a nice slab of jugs after a steep, difficult start.  This line is a bit unusual for The Iris, with more crimping than pocket pulling, making it a nice change of pace.  This is probably not the best choice for a warmup, featuring a brief, in-your-face boulder problem to a trivial finish.

Good holds lead past the undercut start and onto the face.  Shouldery, devious moves snake back & forth across the bolt line.  The pump builds until a sinker jug rail is reached.  From here, easier moves lead to the anchor.

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Protection

Routes in C. Wild Horses Wall