Yet another classic face climb by Bob Gaines... Begin just left of

The Highwayman

and make committing moves in a left tending direction to the first bolt. Continue past four more bolts and one piton to the crux section. Very difficult moves are encountered getting to the sixth bolt (tenuous clip!) and short traverse to the thin crack (aka Skyline Finish of The Highwayman) after the 6th bolt. Two more pitons and gear protect the thin crack to the top. Four out of five stars.

Tecate

Border Patrol

Chihuahua

Skid Row (aka Air Play)

Flare Play

Secondary Inspection

Tres Equis

Miles Away From Ordinary

The Ranger Is Watching Me

The Highwayman

Scare Way

South Buttress

Skid Row starts as a featured face a la Silent Scream before working up into thin zig zagging seams.  Jam and thin sidepull your way through these seams with techy smears and finish in the buttcrack on top of the formation.

Up the steep face left of The Ranger Is Watching Me, starting around the same spot as for Secondary Inspection.

This 4 bolt face route lies left of Skid Row and is the farthest left route on the Dos Equis Wall. Head up and left on blocks and ramp to a bolt, then pretty much straight up past 3 more bolts. 1 of 5 stars.

Flare Play is the next crack up the southwest face of Dos Equis Wall from

Scare Way

(5.10b).  Reach it by tricky scrambling to an uncomfortable belay in some big boulders leaning against the wall.

There are two ways to climb this route, following either the left layback with a new bolt or right straight up thin crack where it splits.  Both ways are 5.10c and challenging leads.  In my opinion its very worthwhile to lead both.

For the left head up the thin crack and hand traverse left, make an insecure move up to a bolt and then lieback a rounded rail, a green or red Camelot might go in the flare above the bolt.

For the right crack instead of the hand traverse left, continue the steep thin crack with difficult to place but good pro.  When it looks really really hard to continue, go right to a left slanting hand crack above.

Both ways finish on a nice 5.9 fist crack.

Pretty typical fun exciting Josh climbing.

Up near the center of the Corona Wall face (not Dos Equis) there is a rather obvious left-leaning crack. Climb up into this to establish a stance and start protecting. The crux comes at 8-10 meters and is reasonably protected, but the rock quality is lacking, so taking and placing extra pro is a good idea. After the crux finish directly up on a left-facing crack and flake to the top on fist-sized placements.

Scramble off or get to the anchors on Border Patrol and rap down on a single line.

Climb the right-leaning crack, down and right of "Scare Way", until the crack heads horizontally right. Continue up face to a belay ledge on "South Buttress". Follow "South Buttress to the top.

A variation moves up and left on face at about two thirds height.

Start up a slightly right-leaning crack that begins with rattly fingers or very tight hands, which ascends 2/3 of the way up to a small recess, where it does a subtle dogleg to turn slightly left-leaning rest of the way via big hands to the top.  Sharp rock.  Might feel harder for some hand sizes, or easier.

Giving this a non-generic name instead of adding another Unknown or Unnamed to the world. Not documented in any of the books. If there's already a name and info for this crack, happy to update to reflect.

At the right hand edge of the Corona wall, near to the point where it becomes Dos Equis, there is a short vertical crack system. Climb and protect this, moving up and right into a second crack, and then pop up and over onto the right-hand shoulder of the wall, following bolts up to the top. The crux is moving up from the ramp onto the face, with a bolt right were you'll want it. The crux move? Easy for 5.10b. Maybe 5.9 or 5.10a. Rap from the nearby anchors or walk off.

This relatively unheralded classic lies on the left side of the Dos Equis Wall and features thin tenuous climbing throughout most of it's entirety. At the top one can finish direct via a hand crack or cut left along a ramp with a fixed pin (unless it's missing).

Originally done without any bolts, this is still a climb to grab your attention for the duration as it is thin, balancy and technical. Excellent moves on good stone make this a gem of the Indian Cove area.

The crux is down low but the crack continues long enough to get some good climbing in. The left-hand finish is recommended as it is steeper and provides more interesting climbing.

This is a good wall to escape the crowds of the Feudal Wall, Billboard Buttress and Short Wall. Climbs here appear steep and intimidating but most are easier than they look, and this route is no exception. Two stars out of five.

This route climgs the buttress to the right of the Dos Equis Face.  It's a nice featured face, steep in areas, and provides a significantly easier alternative to many of the climbs out on the face itself.  The summit is nice, so give this climb a shot.

The crux here is right off the deck -- the first 20 feet or so are steep and bouldery, and pro is somewhat thin.  About 70 feet up, you'll get to a spot where you may want to build an anchor to climb this thing in two pitches.  Save yourself a bunch of time -- keep climbing!!  Although you can't tell from here, there's only about 10 more feet of 5th class from this point.

Description

Protection

Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall