Start on top of the 15' boulder around the corner from the start of Super Slab. 1st crux is right off the block.  Use a stick clip if there is any question about making the 1st clip - it's a long way back down to the ground. After 40' of typical Smith moves on tuff, you reach the 2nd crux (no more beta here). Finish on the East set of Super Slab anchors.  You can climb SS to put up a TR.  Good rock as long as you don't go too far left.

Animal Farm

Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking)

Lets Face It

Bill's Flake

Finger Puppet

Burma Buttress

Havana

Peking

Bay of Pigs

Papillion

Flex

Sole Survivor

Breakdown in Paradise

Dirty Pinkos

Orgasmophoria

Super Slab

Pop Art

Amphetamine Grip

Moscow

I Almost Died

Ride The Lightning

Phantasmagoria

Commie Pinkos

A Stroke of Brilliance

Dances with Clams

Gulag Archipelago

Titanium Jag

Chairman Mao's Little Red Book

Fingers of Fate

Straight Outta' Peking

Pull through some traverse moves on good holds to the first bolt, then enjoy technical climbing on edges and pockets for about 60 feet up to a roof.  Massive jugs and an easy pull await you.  Run it out above the roof on the right to the last bolt and another move before the first pitch anchor.  The first pitch gets a 5.10c rating. 

  The second pitch goes at 5.10d and brings you up to the top of the wall.

Chouinard's Crack is one of the best splitters in the Park.  There's not much more to say about it -expect really fun, straightforward fingers and thin hands crack climbing with solid gear.    If you want to spoil it, finish off with the rest of Peking, but for a great outing, finish up on Moscow.

Great movement on small crisp edges make this an enjoyable route if your comfortable on slightly spicy 10.b 

  Carefully make your way up to the first bolt (a fall would be ugly) then crimp your way up good edges to an anchor next to the anchor on Peking

This is a short but fun route located on the far left side of Red Wall.  Look for a large gully that separates Picnic Lunch Wall from Red Wall.  Just right of this gully, there's a ledge system 15-20 feet above ground (accessible near its left side via 4th class "chimney") that runs along the base of the Red Wall.  Bill's Flake follows a circular, 40-foot flake attached to main wall atop the ledge system. 

  Scramble up to the ledge system (class 4).  Move up a short, left facing dihedral below the flake.  Traverse left on perfect rock via hand jams and underclings (10-).  Move up and follow left side of flake up and right to bolted anchor.

A very short route sharing the majority of its moves with Phantasmagoria.  Some thin holds at the start yield to easier, fun climbing to a short anchor.

A better variant to Peking's 2nd pitch climbs a nice crack then slab. Very solid for Smith tuff but some lichen keeps it interesting. The most direct start is Chouinard's Crack, passing the chains and belay on gear on a large ledge at 120 feet (hand size) or another one at 140. Climb Peking's corner past a few bulges until you see a flake crack rising onto the slab to your right. Tricky lieback in the crack then quest up 6 bolts to the top of the wall. Finish up and right on ledges to the 4th class top out. Or, go left at the top to a bolt belay on Straght Outta' Peking and climb that route with it's one blank 5.10+ arete move (bring a nut to lasso the stud of one bolt if its hanger is still missing). You could start via Let's Face It, for the full 5.10 slab adventure. There is also a single bolt linking from Moscow, about 2/3 of it's way up, directly to the bolts on Burma, bypassing the lower crack for the easiest approach.

 Walk off via Misery Ridge.

This rarely climbed route sits just uphill from Moscow and is a good alternative if that route is busy. The rock appears atrocious at first, but with good stemming and jamming technique most of the choss is avoidable, and becomes cleaner higher up. 

  P1: Start up the loose corner, using both cracks to stem around a bulge. Continue on better rock with multiple cracks in the corner to a section of easier rock, to a belay around the corner to the right. 

  P2: Follow wide cracks up the right-facing corner. The rock is great on this pitch but still has some lichen. Belay at the top of the corner on a large shelf. 

  Step left to the top of Moscow and follow 4th class up for 50 feet to a great perch at the top of the Red Wall. Put on sneakers and walk up to the Misery Ridge trail.

First pitch is classic, many stop at first set of anchors. The upper pitch is great fun though a little loose.  

  P1 - 5.8 - Hand traverse left to a splitter hand crack. Follow crack up to bolted belay, belay from bolts if planning on just doing first pitch. Or continue up another 60 ft to a good belay ledge blow the P2 crux. Belay from mid sized cams. 

  P2 - 5.8 - Crank the awkward 5.8 bulge then head striaght up untill your rope runs out. Belay mid sized cams. 

  4th class scamble to top.

Climb through buckets and up a slab for 70 feet.

This route starts on top of a block and moves right and up along a thin crack. Gear is minimal for the first 30 feet or so. gear gets better and climbing eases until the crux at a bulge. easy climbing to an anchor.

Delicate face climbing with a spicy runout between the first and second bolts gives way to fun edge pulling in the middle and a stopper crux on a rounded layback flake at the top.

An unusual route that starts with easier moves on an aesthetic, highly pocketed wall before hitting a crux sequence about 3/4s up on edges.  The crux feels a bit contrived because the bolting tries to force you into harder terrain when an easier sequence is  a bit off to the side but has a pendulum fall risk as a deterrent.

Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk: Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.

 Link to the topo: web.archive.org/web/2015090…

 1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.

 2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.

 3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.

 4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.

 Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by

 The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.

Start at the top of Phantasmagoria and climb one more long pitch to the top of the formation. 

  The line goes through some suspect rock but has fun moves, great exposure, and is well protected. 

  Rap down Super Slab with two ropes.

This is a fun 5.6 multipitch. The climbing is fantastic and the position is amazing

 Pitch 1: 5.6 This climb begins up a left facing dihedral/ramp. Follow the crack occasionally using face holds to a ledge and bolted anchors.  Approximately 35 meters.

 Pitch 2: Take a tenuous traverse left. Be careful to protect for the second here. Take this short pitch to a ledge that is almost parallel to the last belay. Natural anchor takes 1-1.5".  Approximately 20 meters.

 Pitch 3: Use face features to pull a short steep section and then follow the crack/seam up into another left facing dihedral to the summit.  Approximately 35 meters.

 From the top walk back away from the face descending a small slab to a grassy bowl. Then climb up another steep slab for 30ft and then continue hiking west to get to hiking trail. Once at the trail follow it down to the right.

A fairly short route that climbs on knobs up through a crux bulge near the top.  This route was given 10c in the 92 Watt's guide but feels easier than Dances with Clams to the right.

One of the best moderates routes on the Red Wall. Rather run out on the last pitch. A great alternitive to super slab or moscow when theres crowds, if your solid on run out 5.7. 

  P1 - 5.5 - Start With the first pitch of super slab.  

  P2 - 5.7 - From the belay work up a short 20 ft run out to where a crack system heads up and through a small buldge. Belay atop bulge at stance with .5 - 1.5 inch gear. Or belay a little higher at small ledge off an old fixed pin and some tricky aliens behind a small flake.  

  P3 - 5.7 - Head straight up from the belay on runout climbing when possible work left to find some good gear, then ascend the light colored corner to the bolted anchors attop the wall.  

  Rap with double ropes or do tricky walk off.

2 or 3 pitches of moderate cracks up the Red Wall. Good intro to multi pitch trad.  

  P1 - 5.6 - Begins in a blocky corner, on the far right side of the Red Wall. After 25 ft head striaght up into open book (5.7) or cut left and keep going up untill a nice belay ledge is reached. Belay from medium sized gear.  

  P2 - 5.6 - Head straight up from belay ledge and take it all the way to the top from here or stop on one of two smaller ledges to belay. At the top theres a 20ft sec of 4 inches.  

  4th class scramble to the top.

Climb up a steep arching corner crack on good finger jams. The crux for me was a brief section of flaring thin hand with no feet, some intense stemming or back stepping may help. Foot holds start appearing after the undercling, but watch out for animal poops at the jug. Pull the final roof on hand jams to two 1/4" bolt. Walk off. 

  Warning: Lot's of lose rocks at the top! A baseball sized chunk flew down as far as the stairs as we pulled the rope. Maybe that's how the route was named? Climbers who don't like to wear helmet please stay away.

A thin start on good rock gives way to easier climbing.

Long, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded.  There's a couple of cool bulges.  Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria.  Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts.  By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith.  For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem. 

  Again, as long as you are doing this one, you should finish with the Orgasmaphoria pitch above.  It turns a good one-pitch route into a special two pitch route.

This is the first pitch of a 4 pitch climb called Dirty Pinkos that goes at 5.9+. Here is a link to a topo of the complete climb. smithrock.com/b2evolution/m…

  Slab climb up the outside corner next to the first pitch of Super Slab. Thin moves at the start leads to a funky move over a bulge and an easy finish.

Stroke of Brilliance is incorrectly documented in Alan Watts' Smith Rock Guide, 2nd Ed  

  This route starts at the 3rd pitch of Super Slab and veers left towards a bolt on the low-angled face. Continue up the slab finding 6 more well spaced bolts along the way and to a crux near the top.  

  If one follows the current description in the guide they will need cams to 2" and will be climbing a 5.10 crack to reach the slab. The crack is not bolted as described and the first bolt above and to the left of the crack is somewhat useless.

Given 10a in the 92 Watt's guide, this route has continued to lose some holds since then, and is a bit harder now.  Overall, the rock on the route now feels pretty solid.  Wide edge moves lead to a tricky overhung finish on pockets and edges just before the anchors.

1st pitch crux comes low(11a).  2nd pitch (11c/d) enjoyable moves on nice rock stays with you to the ledge.  3rd pitch waterstreak has  10d move at bulge.  The 4th(9)  climbs big holds to the top.  Scramble into left gully to rap from pitch 4 or descend misery Ridge.   Over-all a fun climb on good rock with great position. 

Great line with fantastic exposure at the top. 

  Start from the top of Bill's Flake ledge off to climber's left. There is some tat tied around an old pin, this is where you start. 

  P1: Climb up a thin seam, clipping pins and using gear when you can. The climbing will ease off; follow the easiest path along the arete to a large ledge; belay here. 

  P2: Climb up the obvious rightward ramp towards the distinct half-mood dihedral. Pull through the diehdral and belay at a bolted anchor on the top of it. 

  P3: Step left off of the anchor and use small edges to get to the base of the roof. Savor the exposure down all of Picnic Lunch and Red Walls! Make sure you let out a loud victory cry so all the tourists in the picnic area can see how rad you're getting as you pull over the roof on slightly sloping holds. Above the roof, ramble up easy 5.7 pocket climbing, clipping a pin and getting gear where you can. Fixed anchor at the top to belay from. 

  Descent: Either walk off the same way as you would for Super Slab, or make three raps using the following anchors: P3 of TJ > P2 of TJ > Top anchors of Phantasmagoria > ground. Raps can be done with a 60m

This underated climb is a fine outing that can be done as two pitches or as one long pitch with a 60m rope.  The crux comes where you expect on the brilliant 2nd pitch dihedral. 

  Pitch 1: Begin to the right of Ride the Lightning in a left facing dihedral up to the base of the book. 

  Pitch 2: Use stemming, palming, fingerstacks to make your way up the perfect corner.  You'll be wishing there was more.   

This one's got a bit o' everything! 

  Start out in stepped rock just below Chairman Mao and climb up and into a funky crack system that quickly steepens and leads to some good jams. Follow the crack up through a blunt arete feature then follow it through a dramatic hand traverse left with little or no feet on the slab below. When the crack peters out power straight up the face (pumpy) past a bolt to a ledge with an anchor. 

  Belay from the top and rap with a 60m or climb and lower with a 70m.

This is a direct finish to Peking that climbs the arete directly above second pitch. The climbing takes you up a steep arete and is sustained for the grade.

The Red Wall has some of Smith's best multipitch moderates as well as a few classic tuft crimpfests.  It is east facing and gets morning sun. The rock quality is generally good for Smith.

Description

Protection

Routes in (u) Red Wall