Another pumpy route that would be classic if some of the fragile holds cleaned up. Start with the same two or three moves of Celebrity Roast and begin heading right.  Climb towards a cool flake feature that enables you to reach high and clip the third bolt.  From here climb up shallow corner with small holds to a pumpy finish on large, fragile seeming holds.

Cameo Appearance

Quiet on the Set

Prime Ticket

Star Search

Celebrity Roast

You'll be on center stage with this, the center most route on the crag.  Don't climb too slowly or your forearms will be roasted like Charlie Sheen on Comedy Central. Start with a tricky boulder problem to get off the ground and follow the face up to the first bulge.  Pull through some small crimps through the first bulge to make your way to a brief rest below the second bulge.  Here fight your way through the pump as you encounter more technical, crimpy face climbing.  This thing is pretty on you from start to finish.

SSHHHH!!! not so loud!   This is the easiest sport route at the cliff, and climbing with quiet feet my help you stay on the set, since the holds are kind of fragile, so keep it down already.     So the first bolt on this has a homemade hanger that looks like it is as thin as a piece of paper, the climbing seems to head left when the bolts head right, but this route isn't really all that bad.  I wouldn't come here just for this one, but it serves as a good warm up for the cliff.   

  Start on the left end of the wall, and head up the arete like feature.  The holds are not very obvious and the route wanders a bit.  However, the unique nature of some of the holds makes this worth doing. 

  We also found it difficult in places to not stem across the corner to the left.

The only reason I did not give this thing four stars is the fact that the holds seem fragile in places.  However, this is a great route.  Start off of the top of the boulder at the right end of the cliff.  Through the first section there is some questionable rock, but you can avoid pulling on it by using some of the sweet pockets that show up just when you want them.   

  Once past the first two bolts, you will find yourself at a rest at a horizontal break below the bulge above.  Here is where the pump clock starts.  Work your way up through very positive, and sometimes fragile holds, through rock that is steeper than it looks.  Fight through a cryptic crux and hold on through some more pumpy climbing to the top.

If you are searching for stars, I gave this route three of them.  You might be wondering why three stars at the start of this climb, but by the time you get to the top you'll know this is a good route for sure.  Begin just left of Celebrity Roast, and head up and left through some slightly crumbly rock.  Head up some thin holds to a huge layback that seems like it will detach at any second....still wondering why three stars? Once past this section head through the cool layback features to a bulge.  Once here head up on some killer edges up to the crux where a sea of hand-hold look-a-likes hang out.  Here you must paw around until you find the right holds, and make a big move, far above the second to last bolt.  Clip, breathe a sigh of relief and climb up a few more pumpy holds to the top.

I'm sure you have found yourself in the same situation, thumbing through the guidebook looking for somewhere you haven't been a hundred times.  I had always looked at this cliff in the book,thinking it would be worth checking out, but just never made it there. Even though this cliff was bolted in the early 90's, it still has a bit more fragile rock than other cliffs of the same era.  It seems that this little cliff has seen only a small amount of traffic in 20 years.     However, you should come and check this place out as this cliff boasts a handful of quite good routes.  It is further proof that even the less visited cliffs in Red Rock have some gems that are worth the 15 minute approach.  This cliff faces west and was shady well until mid afternoon.  It does seem to catch quite a bit of wind.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Universal City