This is an overlooked gem and would receive more traffic if people knew it existed. A pure power endurance route on mostly positive holds. No tricks or gimmicks like other hard routes at New Jack. The route is sustained at the V4 to V5 level with a few semi-rests along the way. The hardest single move is probably clipping and moving past the 3rd bolt. However, the upper half of the route has a couple distinct boulder problems thrown in back-to-back and finishes with some small sequential holds that turn on the pump-factor and provide for the redpoint crux.

The DX

Dita's Play House

2016

It Puts the Lotion on its Skin

Bombs Away

Slip Prone

Kestrel Dihedral

1964

Shares the first three bolts with 1964. Continue right past 5 more bolts to reach the chain anchors.

Climb the arete on the wall behind Bombs away. It's the left bolted route.

Far left bolted route. This route tops out into an upper area with three more routes. Rap rings to get back down

The lower of the three routes immediately on your right when topping out into the area. This route goes up the spine of the blocky main crag.

Long, easy dihedral. A lot of fun.

Use the rings at the base to rap down to ground level.

Same first three bolts as 2016. Continue left past  7 more bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Scott Cosgrove Memorial Buttress