A splitter, crescent-shaped OW into squeeze chimney. Quite clean, as it's been water-worn over the eons, somewhat like the Drainpipe in Donnelly.

A couple butterflies lead to stacks/kneelocks and into the crux stretch of chickenwings and heel-toeing; the squeeze gradually widens and you can fully burrow in before finishing up an unexpected handcrack on the left wall to the belay ledge. A great blue-collar trainer!

Mr. Critical

Barley Route

New Life or Second Life

Refractory Period

Fist of Fury

BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Climbers)

Ruby Flame

Sgt. Fish Scale

Bunny Slope

Thin and Tipsy

Break a Leg

Belly Full of Bad Berries

Ed's World

Mr. Bad News

The Hitch Hiker's Thumb

Critical Mass

Wrench Route

Unknown

Unknown Chimney

Blue Square

Pinch It

Fisticuffs

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice

Just Because

Uncut

Life....

Cult Classic

Short and Stout

Sabrina

Critic's Choice

Unnamed 5.10

Tom's Thumb

Sugar Plum

Second Choice

Unknown Wide Corner Route

Acronymph

Knees without honor

Unnamed 5.10 Flare

We did this route a few years ago now (2011?) and I may not have the details quite right. This route is 5 - 10 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope, around the corner. I still need to go back and put a plaque at the base, but the route has an obvious fist to OW crack roof traverse (the route's namesake) about 80 or 90 ft up that is about 10 ft long. The crack starts off the ground as fingers and slowly widens to hands before the roof, then good fists and liebacking through the roof. I think you can get by with a double rack of cams up to BD#3, then at least one #4 and #5, and probably a #6 above the lip. Crack is very clean, but we did have to pull off a 15 ft tall skinny block in the middle of the route, which is probably why nobody had done it before. The rock above the roof is a bit crumbly, but not too difficult. When I did the route, I remember my fists fit perfectly (normal size male hands) and it felt like climbing one of those peg boards we had in gym class.

Two bolt anchor at the top. I'm pretty sure a 60m rope will get you down.

Have fun!

This route has not seen much traffic, most likely because the guide book gives little information and says that it has a one-bolt anchor (looks like it from the ground but there are two bolts). With some more traffic this route will clean up nicely (except perhaps the big ledges near the end - lots of bird poop).

I really enjoyed the variety that it offered: hand jams, stemming, offwidth (or lie-back), little chimney (with 5" crack in the back) then some fun ridge moves to finish. Stellar.

A 70m rope will get you back to the ledge ~10 feet off the ground. Easy down climb.

Rattly fists in overhanging splitter crack. It is unclear whether this route is properly described in the guidebook or not.  This is the crack that was behind the route "Life" that fell off.

The guide also mentions that this rock is soft, its not.  The quality seems good, and so is the quality of the climbing.  However, this route is NOT 5.10!!! Unless you have monster sized fists.

The anchor also seems to be fine, as of Spring 2013.

Crack on face widening gradually from fingers to short section of OW before the chains.

BBC from Cleveland is a worthy crack up at the Critic's Choice.

Scramble up 15' of 5.easy choss.  Enter a 10' squeeze that protects well with hand sized cams.  Step onto the top of the pillar, breathe a second, then enter the thin hands section before switching cracks to the right and going for the anchors.

The guide book describes this route as twin cracks to splitter offwidth but the offwidth is flaring, not splitter.  Either way the route is fun if your into offwidths, but may be a little sandy since it doesn't get climbed much.

Fingers down to tips and stemming at the top in a left facing corner on really good varnish.

Super long, low-angled perfect hands in a corner.

Get ready to loose some skin. Fingernails start in a layback corner leads to strong moves between solid finger locks. As the name implies this route is short and tipsy.

Offwidth and squeeze lead to a tunnel like section that is climbed on the outside and protected by 3 bolts, then more squeeze to the top.

45 degree overhanging splitter offwidth.  Nuff said.

Right of bunny slope, short hands to fingers in a slab

Edit: Probably don't climb this. The whole thing could come down! Not sure why I did it in the first place.

Some cool sporty moves with an arete and tips crack lead into powerful thin crack moves. More sporty movement guards the anchor, when the crack thins back down.

This crack is formed by a severely overhanging detached flake, that is no more than a few feet thick. While I was able to aid up it without incident, its hard to tell if a lead fall would rip gear and/or cause the entire route to fall down.

An excellent offwidth route up an aesthetic tower! Start on the downhill face, up the obvious offwidth in a left-facing dihedral which pierces the entire tower and separates the main pinnacle from the flying buttress to the left. There's a plaque beneath the route, and a summit register wedged into the loose summit blocks.

The name comes from the profile of the tower, which is thumb-like from most directions, but especially so when viewed from directly downhill with the flying buttress as the fist and the summit pinnacle as the thumb.

P1- Starts out with new #5 camalots and gradually widens to sustained squeeze (wider than tipped out #6 friend) by the top. The rock is great, with just a bit of sandy stuff as you pull over onto the belay ledge. There are two bulges, the lower being the crux and is conveniently laybacked around. A really nice pitch, even for those who aren't OW gurus. Good belay ledge. 5.11 90'

P2- A 6 bolt ladder to the three bolt summit anchor, which is a bit below the actual summit due to rock quality. The bolts are well-spaced, so aiders are nice to have. The true topout requires carefully scrambling atop some loose blocks, a bit unnerving at first glance, but we successfully perched four guys up there without mishap. A0 25'

Gaint wide corner to the right of Ruby Flame.

the whole run fingers to thin hands OW fist's squeeze roof jam's stemming all of it

Ascend a crumbly off width or start on Knees without Honor to gain the large flake. Jam to the top and pull some spicy exit moves. A short distance above the flake is the anchors. You wont be able to see the anchors from the ground.

A fun squeeze chimney if you set up a top rope by lowering to the anchor from BBC of Cleveland and climb from the right. A scary offwidth/chimney lead if you try to use the bolts on the left side. The start is too tight to fit inside easily on the left, and the second bolt is really high above the first.

Left of Ed's world about 60 feet, you'll find a marvelous big hands to fists to offwidth crack in a right facing dihedral. In the guidebook it's listed as Blue Square (5.10), so that's what I'm posting it here as. Start between a boulder and the wall up on a pedestal and climb teacups and fists up bomber stone till you get to knees, then wings and eventually a squeezy tunnel where you can breathe the finest dust the desert has to offer. Grovel up through and enjoy the view! Well protected and a blast from bottom to top. Would be 4 stars if the anchors were placed better and the ending grovel wasn't so dirty.

Great Warm up on this side of the wall. Immediately right of 'Unnamed 5.10 flare'. Some well-protected chimney moves with an interesting step across at the top of the route when the flake ends behind you. Mostly off-fingers and tight hands.

Pull onto a shelf, twin cracks up a pillar/ramp (good hands in left crack), then up the clean left-facing dihedral with fists, off-fists, and a few stacks. The meat of the climb is old #4 camalots, rattly fists or good butterflies.

This is a clean varied pitch, but it's pretty far out in no-man's land. There's a plaque.

An anti-classic of sorts, a squeeze chimney leading up to the top of an obvious pillar.

This route begins with a couple of hand jams to some fun finger jams, and eventually leads to athletic climbing past a lone bolt to a two bolt anchor.

fingers in a dihedral leads to a few face moves to gain a seam with a rest, then fire a short section of 0.5 crack to an easier but slightly sandy traverse to the chains. Not in my guidebook, anyone have FA info?

Starts out with easy hands and then widens out for the crux. Rest up at the bottom of the chimney before the last 10' to the top.

Hands through a roof, then offwidth and past a massive block through another roof and then splitter hands up high.  A good warm up for the zone.

A sandy ramp leads to a fist splitter.  Climb that to the top of a short pillar.  Worth doing for some #4 practice.

Gets afternoon sun.

Fingers to hands to fists in a left facing flake.

This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter.  Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors.  Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks.

Varying sizes with a punch at the end that can be done a couple ways.

Tom's Thumb is a left facing corner that starts with off-fingers and quicky pinches down to tips (no purple camalot necessary). Climb through a scoop/ledge and steep changing corners that leads to easier terrain with good fingers and feet.

Looks and climbs like The Piano at Fin Wall (10+), but much easier.

11- grade on plaque, but this seems very generous.

Finger crack to flare to roof.

Nice black varnish.

Beautiful, clean, off-fingers and thin hands in an overhanging corner, roof at the top.

A wonderful right-facing corner. Starts thin, works through a flare, pulls a cool roof, and then finishes with some fun wide climbing.

This route climbs a thin offset crack that angles to the left.  The gear is mostly tight fingers and fingers with a couple hand pieces near the top.  An interesting route that is NOT splitter.

Climb through a thin loose section over a low ledge. Climb down behind the crack you just climbed, pull your wide gear through too you and continue back 15ft to the perfect wide crack.

Great warm up on the right side of the cliff. Starts in a flare. Thin hands quickly leads to perfect hands and some wide hands over small roofs. Flare goes to left facing corner before the anchors. A bit sandy but overall very good route on great rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Critic's Choice