From the belay ledge step across a deep chasm with no protection and make some exciting moves to clip the security of the first bolt; more fun lies ahead as you climb on suspect flakes and edges all the way to the anchors.

Remembering the name of this climb as you do it is helpful as the holds will be doing just that all the way up this seldom done route. Oddly appealing in a strange sort of way; more traffic will undoubtably make this more pleasant and even bump up the grade. One star out of five.

Poppin' and Breakin'

I Have The Touch

Tiers for Fears

Moor or Less

Prozac Crack

Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor)

Scattered Remains

Wuthering Heights

Stairway to Kevin

The Still

Cosmic Trigger

Jolly Roger

Climb the slabby seam (#0 TCU here) to the featured slabby face above and finish at anchors shared with

Poppin' and Breakin'

.

Higher quality rock and more intriguing moves make this a slightly better proposition than it's neighbor to the right. Two stars out of five.

This route is harder than the reach dependent

Sensory Deprivation

. I Have The Touch is cruxy and takes some work to climb and is somewhat sharp and steep. The route is a ton of fun and good on cool days, gets sun and is at a cool location, just don't disturb the miner below.

This excellent three-tiered hand crack is well worth the somewhat lengthy approach and finishes directly via some run-out face climbing, but a better protected "escape" (5.10b) can be made by cutting right at an obvious break.

Fun, well-protected climbing in an area that is seldom visited by others is a bonus to this route as are the many other worthwhile climbs nearby.

When visiting please be sure to leave the area as nice as you found it, if not nicer, and respect the nearby artifacts and curios from another era.

Climbs an attractive left-facing corner system to the right of

Wuthering Heights

starting from a large ledge midway up the face.

Climbs an obvious "S" shaped hand crack up the lower-angled face to a steep finish. Fairly good rock throughout. Gear belay and scramble off down and right.

About 100' left of

Tiers for Fears

is this fabulous corner system with twin cracks. Lieback/jam and stem your way up the corner using both cracks to a bolted anchor at a stance.

Perhaps the best gear lead on the rock, this fun climb has great moves on good rock in a quiet, remote-feeling setting. Were the climb longer perhaps it would deserve more stars. Three out of five stars.

There are some fun and intriguing moves enroute to the top but more than a few holds are loose. Protection can be challenging to place because one side of the crack is smooth and the other side is coarse. If the rock was more solid, this route would rival other trad climbs on the formation in terms of quality.

High on the west face of Fraggle Rock is where you'll find this slabby moderate which sits above a large ledge system midway up the formation. Easily approached by doing either Prozac Crack (5.8) or Stairway To Kevin (5.8) and walking left on the ledge to the base, or by doing Tiers For Fears (5.10d R or 5.10b) and downclimbing easy cracks to the base of the route.

Adequately protected friction and edges up good quality rock mark this route which ends at the top of the crag. Descend by downclimbing back to the base and following the ramp system along the base of Scattered Remains (5.10c) or by heading north and accessing the rap anchors atop The Still (5.10c) and Poppin And Breakin' (5.10a).

This is a fun moderate that's worth the walk not just for the climbing in a remote-feeling area, but for the rich history of the area. Two stars out of five.

About 150' right of

Tiers for Fears

are several left-slanting crack systems. This climb takes a prominent rib on a face left of and in front of those slanting cracks.  Gear belay and scramble off down and right.

This is one of the easier routes in the area and features fun, well-protected climbing in a scenic, remote location.

I always loved this route, and dont know if it gets climbed anymore...  I would do

I Have The Touch

and then get on Cosmic, but this was a while ago, and it not being on the Fraggle list I thought it needed to be, but may be gone just as some sport routes/TR anchors in JT.

Clip the first bolt on

I Have The Touch

then head right around an arete onto a steep slab with interesting moves. Worth doing if in the area and two stars out of five.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fraggle Rock