This is the obvious overhang problem. Trust me the movement is even more fun then it looks!

Due to a broken hold the route now starts up White Riot(crack dihedral) until you can reach the obvious reinforced jug out left. Fire some fun big moves to situate your self over the roof,  traverse left to the jugs under the bolt line, avoiding moving over to the crack on the right(this whole bit felt mid 5.12). From here bust straight up using some interesting side pulls and edges to a cool pocket. Continue straight up from here through more edges and a sloper to finishing jug under the White Riot anchors( lower to mid 5.13). Bouldery route, super fun, and deserves more attention!

*****WARNING*****I HIGHLY RECOMMEND SKIPPING THE FIRST BOLT WITH THE BLUE TAG, PRE-CLIPPING & EXTENDING THE SECOND(OR ALSO SKIPPING), AND EXTENDING THE THIRD BOLT. You want to make sure the rope isn't going to get snagged under the sharp edge of the roof by the first two bolts! A fall from the top of the route could lead to a VERY HARD catch due to the way the rope drags under the roof and over that edge. I would climb White Riot(5.11a) and on the way down pre-clip the bolts at the beginning.

Voodoo Bliss

Radio Static

Green Ice

White Riot

Bad Monkey!

Wandering Stone

The Fly

Monkey's Little Sister

Steel Monkey

Mosquito Coast

Handicapable

Second Time Around

Third Times A Charm?

Start in the blocky section under the roof to the right near the crack(White Riot) and overhang(Voodoo Bliss), trend cautiously(some choosy big blocks) left to first bolt. Thin moves lead to a rest before the business of the climb. Climb fun side pulls and edges straight up and eventually left to finish on Green ice. The movement is very fun and totally worth your effort. Just as good as the rest of the climbs at the crag. There used to be a missing bolt in the middle of the climb, but has since been replaced and all bolts retightened. Enjoy!

It's a pump fest bottom to top!  Tahoe test piece!

Climbs the right-most fissure up the wall.  A powerful crux after the 4th bolt sets the grade for this route.

climb face to overhanging corner. crux is last few moves before lip of overhang,

Start on the big block above the awesome oak tree 'bench' to a small ledge above first bolt, then work your way up the face on good holds.

Just right of White Riot. Stick clip the first bolt - else suffer a 20' runout of ~10a/b climbing! The first bolt is hard to reach. Start on the left side of the arete on good holds. The crux is between first and second bolt, pulling over a bulging overhang.

This is a fun short climb just right around the corner of the main Steel Monkey wall.

This climb is on the left side of Steel Monkey Wall. Just left of the gully. At about the 3rd bolt there is an option to go left which is 5.13.

A contrived "ridge" route for beginning trad leaders. Crux is getting to the first pro with an easy boulder problem off the deck. There is a single bolt on the top of "No Scrubz" a fun 5.8 dirty face TR variation to serve as a directional (see beta photo) however it does not need to be clipped to ascend Handicapable safely. There is a single bolt on the upper face just before the anchor.

This climb is approx 50 yards right of the main Steel Monkey Wall and to the Right of the Gully that you use to access the upper Benches areas (Kudos, Fortress etc). It starts up on a bench by an Oak tree.

Start on a lieback crack and make your way directly to the anchors up the steepest part of the wall. This climb doesn't share any holds with Second Time Around however it is dirty and you'll want a brush.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Steel Monkey Wall