This description was re-written Aug 2018, including a new beta photo.

 Water Stains zig-zags its way up the middle of the west face of The Pulpit. Mike Hill's description in "Hikers & Climbers Guide to the Sandia Mountains" (1993) is okay.

 P1:  4th, 15m. See beta photo. Climb easy terrain up and left to the good ledge with the obvious ~1 foot diameter tree and belay.

Alternate belay: Instead of at the tree, consider setting the belay a little further up P2’s initial ramp though still a little back from where P2 goes vertical. The stance is not great and the bushes are annoying. But this can reduce P2 rope drag as well as reduce horizontal rope slack at the crux-y part sof P2.

P2:  5.7+, 40m from tree. Ascend left up the ramp and then straight up a large alcove.  Higher, bypass the first roof on its right and then another roof on its left.  Continue up to a fixed pin.  Then down and traverse left to a vertical-ish weakness which climbs straight up to a large ledge with bolts.

P2 Alternative: The pitch can be broken in two by trending right before the roofs to a scant ledge for a belay. This way avoids the roof parts of P2 and shortens the amount of rope out at crux sections. But it also introduces some bad fall potential when trending right and up to the scant belay ledge.

P3: 5.6, 35m.  This pitch takes effort to avoid rope drag.  Or, if leading at your limit, consider first moving the belay to the anchors at the end of the traverse.  Given the small gear, simul-climbing may be about as good as free soloing ...

Traverse right about 30 feet on an easy ledge.  Clip one of the anchor bolts at your feet with a long sling and locker and continue up a subtle right-trending ramp past a piton.  Some small pro.  Climb straight up past a small tree and higher until you can traverse right to a large ledge below an irregular hueco.  Above the hueco, there is a very short 1 to 3 inch crack ~10 feet up and left.  Climb past the hueco and up the very short crack to the right end of a ledge with larger tree near its' left end.  Belay at the tree.

A more direct line to the belay ledge (i.e., left of the irregular hueco) is 5.9ish with no nearby pro.

P4: Low 5th, 35m.  Climb about 6 feet up the gully and escape right on an up-angling grass-y incipient crack for 15 or so feet. Then continue up, generally staying a bit right of the gully. There are sections of dirt and loose rock. Be careful to not send rocks down the chute that aims them at your belayer.  Belay on the summit.

Water Stains

Southeast Ridge

The Cave Route

This route ascends the West Face of the Pulpit, and passes a cave in the cliff at mid-height.  I didn't find the cave to be too exciting, but apparently that is the main attraction to the Pulpit.  This route would almost qualify as a waste of time, if not for the excellent 3rd pitch, which is very interesting on great rock, with just the right amount of gear. 

  This route is most frequently described as having 4 pitches, although we climbed it in two pitches (with a 60m rope) with little difficulty. 

  Begin directly below the cave, at the far right end of a small ledge with several trees. 

  P1:  5.7 or 5.8+ There are two options here.  The original route climbs a 5.7 chimney.  A newer variation climbs up a right-facing dihedral to sketchy face climbing at 5.8+.  Numerous haphazard rap stations remain as a testament to the lunacy of this variation.  Unfortunately I followed the variation, so I can't accurately describe the 5.7 version. 

  P2: 5.8+ or 5.7, From either variation, climb up to a large ledge where the two options merge.  Follow mellow, low-angled rock in a large cleft into the cave.  Explore the cave, then downclimb 10 feet.  Traverse right around a rib to a spacious ledge and two brand new bolts. 

  P3:  5.7+, The crux lead.  Above the belay is a series of three right-facing dihedrals.  The two right-most (southern-most) extend down to the belay ledge, while the furthest north only appears 15 feet above the ledge.  Begin up the middle dihedral, (or the left-most of the two that start off the ledge), with a few powerful moves over the slight bulge.  Continue easily until its possible to traverse left to the next dihedral.  Follow this to its end, then traverse further left, past a bolt that is nearing its 40th birthday, along a slightly runout face to easier terrain.  Head straight up to a good ledge below a huge, leaning, right-facing dihedral. 

  P4: 5.6, cruise up the dihedral to a belay tree below the summit. 

  Descent:  Continue E to the summit.  There are 3 possible rap anchors, depending on your level of daring.  The safest is right at the summit, but may require two ropes.  If you have one 60m rope and are brave, downclimb NE over exposed rocks and shrubbery to a tree with rap anchors.  Rap down the gully.  One 60m rope will not reach to the next anchor, so TIE A KNOT in the end of your rope.  An easy 30 foot down climb to the NE leads to the next anchor, where a 60 foot rap reaches the ground.  Scramble down the base of the cliff for ~100 feet to the base of the Cave Route.

Hill's guide indicates this is 5.2. Initially, I'd say 5.6-ish by today's standards although hardly sustained.  Now, after a few times through the chimney pitch, I'd say closer to 5.4 (?) for someone comfortable with chimney technique. 

  I've climbed this twice in early March. That time of year, a handful of warm-ish days will dry things out well enough although the descent will likely still have some snow, sometimes warranting boots and gaitors. 

  P1, P2, P3? ~130m, 4th class:  From the ridge's toe near the La Luz Trail, ascend the ridge on mostly good rock until at a pitch-y tree (~1 foot dia trunk) just past a distinct notch in the ridge; the knotch is about 10m across and one drops about 6 feet while crossing.  We often first rope up at about 100m up at a point just to climber's right of this other tree/view:  

View of Albuquerque from the lower half of the route, about half way up to the notch that is just before the crux pitch.  Many rope up here.      . 

  Crux Pitch, ~35m, mid-5th class:  Past the ~1 foot dia tree and just right of the ridge, ascend the vertical hand-ish crack up and then right to a large pod. Pass the pod on the right and then head to the base of the obvious chimney through poor rock with scant bomber pro.  Ascend the chimney; good cracks on the left are helpful for pro.  To get the first few moves up the chimney, try to avoid climbing exclusively the left face or exclusively the right face. Some shoulder and foot action can comfortably see you through the first few moves to easier stemming. Belay at the top of the chimney. 

  Last pitch, ~45m, easy 5th class: Rope drag can become an issue - could break this in two pitches to alleviate.  Continue up to the summit by directly ascending the ridge, passing rightward of a ~6 inch diameter healthy tree. Don't miss the partially driven piton -  girth hitch it with a nylon sling?  Higher up, pass leftward of a much larger tree and scramble up blocky terrain to summit. 

  VARIATIONS: 

  a) Roughly 100m up the route, there is a 5.6 deviation via a traversing ramp out on the west face.  This is not easy to protect (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88).  We did it in two pitches.  It rejoins the main route at the notch of "P2". 

  b) The chimney can be avoided by climbing mostly straight up from the right side of the pod, perhaps with a jog left on a flat ledge to gain the ridge. Again, this section is a little disconcerting given the quality of the rock. 

  c) As a variation to the last pitch, Hill's guide shows a 5.6 way out on the west face which we have not fully explored (i.e., "Express Lane Variation" - Brian Holcomb, Mark Fuge, 10/88).  There is a needed old bolt that should probably be replaced (~2010).

The Pulpit is the lowest formation in "Upper La Cueva Canyon", and the first crag encountered when hiking up the La Luz Trail.  Due to its distance from the Sandia Crest, this crag sees little action, and any ascent guarantees a long day.   

  This is a true spire that requires a rappel descent.  One 60m rope is adequate if you don't mind a short, 2nd class scramble.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Pulpit