This is a short crack to the left of Jughead.  Luke was determined to do a first ascent and give it this name - I don't think that it had anything to do with this particular route.

Ashtray, The

Teething Toy

Familial Feud

Inhaler

Halfway to Paradise

Hatfields and McCoys

Wheezer

Jughead

No Mistake or Big Pancake

The Real McCoy

The Snatch

Nitwit

Misfits

Little Fireman

Solo Dog

Effigy Too

Mis-Matched

Crossroads

Hatfield Arete

Start up

Inhaler

then move right and follow fun, featured face to the anchors.

Climb a right facing flake system up to a small ceiling. Step right around the ceiling and up a left arching flake above. Finish up an easy, left leaning wide crack.

Start in a sunny alcove across the wash from Echo Slab and about halfway between

Effigy Too

and

Jughead

. This alcove sits up above the wash and in the back right is a large acacia bush in front of a dihedral. Climb the dihedral up to a loose pedestal with a bolt. Climb the flake above to a ledge, then up a crack to the top.

Starting in a pit on the south side of the

Hatfield Arete/Real McCoy

formation, climb 20 feet up an offwidth/chimney to a big ledge (this is the same ledge that

Hatfield Arete

accesses via a crack from the east). Climb the left edge of the face above using some large flakes and flanges to a stance. Make hard moves up from the stance (height dependant) to an easier, grainy, groove and the top. In effect, this route is climbing the arête to the left (south) of

Hatfield Arete

.

Start up a short crack (optional pro to 3/4") to access the face above where huge, incut jugs and buckets lead up and then right to a bolted anchor/rap.

Due to a lack of traffic it's a little gritty, but the climbing is well protected and quite fun with mostly large, positive holds. Two stars out of five.

Climb the dihedral to just below a loose pedestal with a bolt. Traverse right across a steep wall, then up to a large ledge.

Rappel from an anchor atop

Little Fireman

, which faces

Stick to What

on Echo Slab.

Starting 15' down and left from

Effigy Too

is this engaging mixed route.

A single bolt 15' up marks this route, which wanders upward past the bolt and several horizontals to the top. The pro is decent as the crux is just above the bolt and the climbing above although sporty is easier.

* If not up to leading this route it is easily toproped from the anchor for Effigy Too (don't forget a directional).

This route is actually a variation to

The Real McCoy

, and a great addition to the face.  Start up the off hands crack on the far left side of the face to the large ledge.   Using good holds, lean out and clip the first bolt.  A couple of options lead to a stance where gear is found.  Clean rock leads past two more bolts to the crux.  Climbing directly on the arete keeps the grade in check.  Staying to the right of the last bolt is harder, but a bit contrived. Much easier climbing leads to the top.

This is an excellent steep, gymnastic, knobby face, with huge knobs.

Make height-dependent moves past a bolt (crux) into a thin crack/seam that angles left and then right to the top. Gear belay and walk off to the climber's right.

Although the gear is good on this route it does takes some effort to place, but it's well worth the effort as this is a climb that will hold your interest all the way to the top.

This route is fairly height-dependent and was rated 5.10d-5.11c in the 1986 Joshua Tree Climbing Guide.

Begin 15 feet left of Halfway To Paradise. A very difficult start begins by stemming off a large boulder. The crux is a dyno between the two horizontal cracks (5.12), then climb a steep face (5.10) on excellent patina to the top.

A hand crack with a short face climbing start and an offwidth exit in a shady location.

Climb up an easy wide crack on the left edge of the face to reach a ceiling formed by the boomerang-shaped edge. Climb up and slightly right on the face above the ceiling to an anchor. The crux is getting past the ceiling and is probably height related.

This excellent route lies about 50 feet uphill and right of

Effigy Too

. Start left and below a large boulder. [Beginning off the boulder and traversing left avoids the first 15+ feet of thin crack]. Up a very thin crack then into a right leaning corner (1st bolt). Continue up until established on face above corner (11a); another bolt protects moves to a horizontal. Head right around the corner then up face past the 3rd and last bolt (10b/c).

Lots of varied climbing and cool moves. Descend left, then down chimney (behind Effigy Too & Out On A Limb).

Climb a prominent left facing corner/chimney to the top (5.7), then move up and left to a short, steep, varnished headwall. Climb past one bolt (crux; one could easily aid off the bolt to keep the route at 5.7) to an anchor on a large ledge.

Rappel with one rope.

Begin 10' right of the 3/8" bolt on No Mistake or Big Pancake and climb edges past a discontinuous seam (very small stopper / brass in the seam) to a shallow horizontal crack. Above the horizontal crack, reachy moves on a steep face lead past three bolts to the top.

Orignally free-soloed on the first ascent - the bolts were added later.

Effigy Too is located just left of the bolted

Crossroads

.  The crux is encountered in the first 15' of climbing and protection is a little bit tricky.  The difficulty eases up substantially (5.8ish) after that.  Gear belay.

Descent: walk off down chimney to the south.

This would be a 3-star route if it were a bit longer.

Climb about ten feet up to the top of a grainy pod/off-width that is to the left of the start of

Misfits

.

Make difficult moves right from the top of the grainy pod to gain a thin vertical crack. Follow the crack up to a stance.

Make hard moves off the highest portion of the stance onto a varnished face (this is harder than it looks).

Once the angle eases on the varnished face, go up and right to join the last face moves of

Misfits

to the anchor.

Starting about 20' right of "Effigy Too" 5.10a, stem and chimney up between the main wall and a large block. Clip the first bolt and cast off onto the steep face. A nice mix of black dikes, crimps, pinches, jugs and slopers take one past two more bolts and a short leftward traverse to the ledge/top. Gear belay.

Starting off a boulder to the left of

The Real McCoy

, step left into a fist crack/offwidth, which is climbed up to a ledge (gold, blue and purple Camalots needed). Climb the arete above the ledge to the top (several bolts and a couple small cams needed).

Description

Protection

Routes in Echo Cove - East Side