Pitch 1 (65' - 5.10b/c): Tricky rounded holds on a steep wall lead to a rest at "The Duck Bill", then past diminishing holds to the arete. The steepness eases to a mantle below the anchors.

Pitch 2 (75'- 5.11a): Easy terrain for 45 feet brings one to a steep headwall. Step onto the face, clip the crux bolt and do some fancy dancing to surmount the bulge (height dependent). Traverse right and finish up on a fun and exposed arete.

There is an amazing ledge on the arete at the top (just below the second pitch anchors), so I put a bolt in to use the anchors as a re-direct for belaying the second up. Bring a long sling or daisy if you want to chill on the ledge.

Edit: I should also mention that I get cell-phone reception from the ledge on the second pitch. Pretty rare for the gorge.

Diamond in the Tuff

Full Moon Fever

Finked

Chewy the Beaver

Chukars Gonna Chuk

Chewy's Chimney

Look Out Below

Edge Zeppelin

Phylanthropy

Shadow Plan

Dusk 'til Dawn

Daughters of a Coral Dawn

Climb an arete/face to anchors below a ledge.

Honoring the passing of Tom Petty.

Climb out of the belay pit past the crunchy donut-hole or stem across from the pillar. Pull a tricky bulge, then continue through the steep crux to gain a ledge above (Honnolding opportunity). Negotiate slots, side-pulls and flakes to a final bulge below the anchors.

Climb a low-angle dihedral past two bolts, then move right to gain an easier long, varied face.

Arete or low-angle dihedral to a tricky bulge (crux). Continue up and left through varied & fun climbing.

Stem up a corner to the first bolt then transition left onto the face. Continue up on good holds, then move left again to a rail. Continue up through a fun chimney with good holds to a step right and the anchors.

This route climbs the obvious chimney left of "Chewey the Beaver". It can be easily top-roped from the Chewey anchors, and the chimney is surprisingly clean.

Climb past 4 bolts on a steep face with optional gear to 0.5".

From a perched platform, climb a steep dihedral with great stemming to a transition onto a fun pocketed face. Short but enjoyable.

A cruxy, somewhat baffling start on an arete leads to a steep & pumpy face with good rests. A sting in the tail awaits at the top.

Start up a slab  then transition left onto a face at the bulge & follow a right-leaning flake/crack to a transition onto an arete with a crack. Fingerlock, crimp & work the arete to the anchors. Pumpy finish.

Originally done ground-up, this mixed route (2 bolts + gear) has been retro-bolted with permission of the first ascentionist.

Climb a steep, blocky crack at the base of a dihedral to a transition left. Easier climbing in the middle leads to layback/jamming the steepening crack above. A sting in the tail at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Diamondback Area