Given a chance, this route should be gobbled up. Optunivor climbs the crack/corner at the left side of The Raven’s overhung central face.

Optunivor

Grip

Aerial Acrobatics

The Morrigan

Yatagarasu

The Rook

Flight Bombay

Rave On

Pilgrimage to Lordran

Grey Jay

Trickster in Black

Flight Primary

Magpie

Playing in the Updraft

Huginn

Muninn

Steller's

Fight Secondary

This left-side route starts up the thin crack at the right margin of the eyebrow under a big spruce tree. The undercling and layback to the right to get off the ground (10a). Move back left to get your feet on the slab. Pull the bulge (10+). The crack is not your only option. Above the bulge are several big rest stances. Climb the bomb-bay V slot, 11b. It has little for hands and virtually nothing to pull down on. It does not ease until you get your feet to the lip. Another 15 feet of moderate climbing leads to the anchor.

Defecting out of the slot to the arête on the left provides one easy move, but the finish from that angle is 11b too.

The direct start through the eyebrow roof on the thin crack line may be possible in the 5.12 range.

Grip (named for the most famous Raven of the Tower of London) is a short pitch above

Magpie

and can be combined into a single, 90 foot pitch with that climb (recommended). It can also be accessed from the ledge system south of the

Grey Jay

anchor.

Start from the solid stance under the right-facing corner. Follow the bolts right and out over the overhang and onto the face. Getting your feet established on the face is the crux. It's buckets from there.

From the left end of the eye brow, undercling & layback up to the short, protruding, right-facing corner.

A first hard move gets you up into the 6 foot wide slot. Climb the slot's back right corner, then move up the face above. When you are high enough, step left and out (crux) onto the fin. Face climb the fin to the anchor.

Yatagarasu has three excellent stacked boulder problems. The start in the flaring inside corner & the bulging slab go at ~10c. The roof is significantly harder.

Climb the corner for 20 feet. Transition right to the base of the bulging face under the roof. Climb the face to the crack through the roof. There are good holds in the roof and at the lip. There is not much above that.

It's easy to reach the bolted anchor from

Munnin

to set a TR. Climbing to the roof lip is quite worth while even if you can't pull the last 3 feet.

Start with an mantel. Climb the left-facing corner, then move up the well-featured face to the slot through the steeper rock. The hands & feet are good until your shoulders are above the slot. Getting established on the low angle face above the slot is the crux. Finish up the slab.

Start up

Flight Primary

. At ~15 feet, move left onto the ramp. Climb the ramp/bombay corner to the anchors. Don't miss bolt 4 above your head/right as you start the ramp. The crux is near the top.

Because of the angling nature of the corner, it will be easier for the second to clean the draws rather than doing it on rappel. This route should not be climbed on TR without using the bolts along the ramp.

Rave On is a footwork challenge between

Magpie

and

Grey Jay

.

This route has a fun start, breaking through the right-facing corner at ~15 feet. Moderate climbing leads to the base of the arête. Climbing with the left hand on the arête’s fin, but both feet on the right face is technical 5.9 for 20 feet.

Variations straight up the fin and/or just left of it are also possible.

Grey Jay is named for the smooth, grey slab at the top. It is the rightmost of the lower routes at The Raven. It starts under the dramatic, left-facing corner.  Layback up the corner. When the bolts lead right, pull up & over the corner onto a ledge. Step up onto the slab to work your friction technique up to the two bolt anchor. This anchor can also be accessed from the side to set a TR. To get to the anchor, walk 50 feet above and right from the route's start. Climb the 4th Class scramble that leads to a spacious ledge. The top of Grey Jay is at the left/north edge of the ledge.

Climb the crack. A right/left jog gives rest below the final pull past bolts 5 & 6. It's bolted due to the hollow sounding fins in the crack.

An upper pitch may go but is probably at least 2 grades harder. Go for it.

Magpie has an easy start. Follow the bolts up the low angle and well-featured slab to a stance under the top slab. Climbing to the right of bolts 1 - 6 is 5.4.  Climbing left of the lower bolts is a bit harder. Above bolt 6, the best route is left of the bolts. Use the finger seam on the left to lean out and smear up the nearly featureless but low angle face to the top.

Magpie is a great beginner climb.

This well- protected route has lots of variety.

Stem & undercling up the steep start. Pull the V flare, and cross some low angle rock to the base of a left-facing fin. Climb the edge of the fin or smear up the nearly featureless face to its left. Crank the jug haul to the two bolt anchor. Getting to the first anchor is 5.7.

For extra credit, get your Raven on, and continue past the first anchor up onto the drafty headwall. Climbing left of the last three bolts is 5.9 face. Climbing right of the bolts is 5.8+ stemming, with the crux being the final exit to the left. The finger pocket is there if you can find it.

Start left of the bench rocks where the perfect hand crack breaks through the overhang at head height. Getting feet established above this overhang is the crux of the route. An alternate (5.7?) start stepping across from the bench rocks is possible. Follow the crack slightly left up 20 feet, and cross the low angle slab/ledge to the right. Climb the steeper wall over the shoulder ,and cross

Muninn

at around the 9th bolt. Continue up the crack right on the upper section of

Muninn

. There is another 5.8ish move getting into the top crack.

Start right of the bench rocks where the low angle slab is shaded by the fin. Start up the slab using the fin to compensate for the lack of hand holds on the slab. Pull past the two handed ‘bucket of confidence’, then zig briefly right.  In the corner slot at ~30 feet, the first crux yields to creative footwork. From there, the route trends left and crosses the

Huginn

trad line. At ~60 feet, there is another tricky bit. The top slab has grippy rock on a nicely featured face.

Start up the well-featured corner to the bulge. Pull right then back left to achieve the ledge with the small spruce tree. Finish up the corner behind & left of the tree. The anchor is on the left where the rock is solid.

Fight Secondary is the extension above

Flight Primary

.

Climb

Flight Primary

. Clip a long draw on the anchor, and move left. Three more bolts and some fighting lead to the second anchor. The easiest climbing may not be exactly on the line of the bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Raven