Of the routes that we did on Pilot Knob, this was the best.  There are two starts, an 8 (easier) or the 9+ (recommended).  To do the 9+ start, head up under a roof to the right of

Touch and Go

and pull through it on the right side onto a face and past a very large wedged block. Protect this and continue up into a crack system slightly to the right, ending after some horizontals.  Clip a single bolt and do the second crux (8+) on face moves to reach a bolted anchor.

Scoop Up a Little Sky

Touch and Go

Stress Fracture

Ejector Seat

Drunken Pilot

Little Black Box

Stand By

Chem Trail

This climb presents a fairly distinct crux in that there is really only one or two moves at the grade. The rest is easier.  Short climbers might find it more challenging, however, as the crux is on good holds that could be reachy for them.

Climb up into the corner, protecting whenever possible, and reach up to surprisingly good holds on the right side.  Move up into the corner and easier climbing to the top and a bolted anchor.

This is a reasonable pitch on good rock with good protection.  The line is the obvious hand-crack just left of the left-facing corner on the upper left section of Pilot Knob.

This is a short route with a good crux on good rock.

Start low and left of the obvious, left-facing corner on

Touch and Go

and the crack by it,

Stress Fracture

.  Go up to a small bulge, protect and establish on the face above, left of a chimney. Progress past a single bolt, ignoring the additional bolt out left on the route Dog Fight.

This is a mellow and reasonable climb on-par with the quality of the neighboring routes on this ledge... once the dead bushes were cleaned out of it.

Step up one move and place a good medium/large stopper in a small crack on the left of the main crack.  Stand up and start jamming above (2-3.5" cams), heading up the good handcrack to the big blocks that bulge at the top.  Up top, step up and left and over the top.  A good directional or anchor can be hand in a vertical crack behind the ledge which takes 2-2.5" cams.

This is not a bad climb, per se, but being so short, it is hard to reccomend pursuit of this over something else.  But once you are at the area - you may as well if you have some spare time.

Access the ledge on the upper Northwest face of the second tier, and spot a small stem-box that goes past a bush to a crack that splits to left and right.  Climb up past the bush (5.7, crux), and head left up the crack on that side to the top. There is a second 5.7 move near the top.  Clip the chain and bolt with slings and lower off.

This variation of

Little Black Box

is slightly cleaner, easier, and more fun than the original line.  If you find yourself on the access the ledge on the upper Northwest face of the second tier, you may as well do all 3 of these routes.

Just to the right of the scramble-up, spot a small stem-box that goes past a bush to a crack that splits to left and right. Climb up past the bush (5.7, crux) and head right up the crack on that side to the top. The rock here is cleaner and less bushy.  Clip the chain and bolt with slings and lower off.

Start out as for

Stress Fracture

, but follow the left-angling arm of the crack to the left arete next to the chimney. Follow the arete to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Second Tier