The first half of the climb is traversing and a little pumpy. Start on Jugs at the base of the crack system that splits the brown wall diagonally. Follow the crack up and left placing gear along the way. Begin the crux sequence at your last piece of gear, move up and clip the first bolt from a nice hand rail, then pull the second crux moving left on to the slab. Cruise the nice sculpted and varnished slab past four more bolts to a bolted belay/rappel station above "Road Dogs".

A First Time For Everything

Road Dogs

Compromised

Becky's Buttress

Orion's Belt

Climb the right-facing corner, ignoring the 8" wide crack, utilizing good face holds on the outer face of the block. Once near the top of the block break left and climb a thin crack in good rock to join Becky's Buttress near the top of that route.

Start left of

Road Dogs

and climb crispy rock past the first bolt to access the heavily featured face above. After clipping the 5th bolt start heading left for two bolts, cross ?? (medium cam here) and then clip one more bolt before reaching the chains atop the highest point of the rock.

This climb offers some fun moves over steep, dark patina but the line wanders a bit and the lack of anything else vaguely similar nearby ensures it'll remain a seldom done obscurity. Two stars out of five.

Starts around and right from

Road Dogs

on the right side of the buttress.

Fun face climbing past four bolts and a horizontal crack with a distinct crux/funk type thing over a bulge past the 3rd bolt.

After clipping the third bolt you can reach down and put a longer runner on the second bolt to help with the drag over the bulge. Between the fourth bolt and the top is the horizontal and then the top.

Hop up into the big curving crack/chimney and lean out to clip the first bolt. This protects you as you get established on the slab and then the next couple moves to the left  which are the crux. After that its easy edges up the low angle face to a bolted belay. This route went in just before the park service mandated camouflaged bolts and hangers, so they're nice and shiny. If you want to, try the TR problem directly below the rappel. It starts off the top of a boulder on nice holds. Pretty tough, like a V4 with a crumbly slab above.

A First Time For Everything

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Becky's Buttress