Same start as Finger Crack then traverse left along the obvious, smaller finger crack and continue climbing up on the face of the Fortress. Using the big hole and trending cliff right on the subtly featured face is harder territory, otherwise climb cliff left toward the bigger features.

Fortress Fingers

Finger Crack

Direct

Eye Sockets

Aerial Act

Gumbies Go Home

Big Crack

Fortress Clingon

Fortress Arete

Fortress Direct

Straddle the arete and climb the micro ledges on the face of the fortress. Finish out on Fortress Fingers to the top.  Keep off Finger Crack (5.8) trad for the full effect of this training route.

This is a TOP ROPE variation. Training Route.

Starts on some juggy holds, leads to a right-veering crack which leads to some more big holds to the top.  Fun route with some moves that require a bit of problem-solving.

This route is mostly a Top Rope route.

I tried to lead 'Direct' on 09/17/2011 and I had to trend closer to 'Big Crack' due to lack of protection on the face after the first two horizontal cracks.

I feel like this lead should be considered an 'X' or an 'R' due to the lack of protection above the second horizontal (unless you stay closer to 'Big Crack' which would then no longer be 'Direct').

I've since found out that this route was probably 'Head Pointed' (rehearsed on TOP ROPE until dialed/memorized) then sent on lead. This tactic is often employed on routes with repercussions such as a ground fall.

Either way, try it on Top Rope and see if you can stay 'Direct'.

Climb straight up directly under the two bolts. Casual climbing after pulling the roof.

Beneath big roof right of Fortress.  Route ascends the left side of the roof.

This is the big roof right of the Fortress.  In center of roof is a "hole".  Climb the right arching feature to right of the hole.  Reach left, grab the hole, and pull the roof.  Bonus style points if you put feet in hole and get an inverted rest!

Big Crack...hard to give a better description.  The rock is solid, but sharp.  Use caution when setting up a top-rope.

Climb on the overhung cliff right arete of Fortress Wall. Seriously, climb the arete and only the arete. I pity the fool who climbs into Finger Crack(5.8).

Honestly, this is just a fun variation(eliminate)on a high traffic wall with an easy access top-rope set up. So why not have a little fun right?

Fun easy lead climbing the arete cliff left of Big Crack(5.5)

Straddle the arete and make your way to the top... nuff said.

Description

Protection

Routes in 10. The Fortress