A short and steep tips to finger crack. A bouldery sequence at the start leads to burly crack moves. Its not a long pitch, but there is no resting on this hog! Fist discovered and aided by Erik Kelly. My apologies if I have placed this route in the wrong area

Alpenbock Crack

Hanging Slab Right - Arete

Trench Warfare

Cavity Chimney

Steinfell Route

Climb the farthest right (west) side of the Hanging Slab on clean rock crossing both the Steinfell Route and the Cavity Chimney Route en route to easier slab above. I wouldn't be surprised if this had been done before (Brian?) but it seemed largely distinct from the Steinfell Route (Direct and Original). Other nearby routes in the Granite Guide, Ruckman Guide and the original Wasatch Climbs books don't seem to match. Having wandered around on the Steinfell Route I thought this was mostly distinct.

PM me if I missed something and I'll update the information (or delete).

We revisited this recently after first climbing it a decade ago and found it to be decent quality on good rock. The recent addition of the Cavity Chimney Route to MP reminded me to post this.

Reach the right edge of the slab from near the lowest point of the Hanging Slab (most west side) - but inside the 'cut-out'. Climb out of the cut-out and reach a stance on the right edge of the slab (the start of a psuedo-arete). Or, start on the lowest, right (west) edge of the Hanging Slab and climb directly up to this stance. From this stance, climb this right edge, using the edge of the slab (hand bumps) and a vegetated crack straight up to where Cavity Chimney crests the slab. Cross Cavity Chimney (we used a Big Bro) and run it out to the top on easier, but runout terrain. Belay slightly above the standard-bushy-ledge in cracks that accept mid-size cams. Walk off left (east). We spent a bunch of time cleaning the cracks, but alas, they have refilled.

From the Granite Guide:

"Likely the most bizarre climbing in the Wasatch. This one is for all you wide & funky lovers!"

Agreed. This was wide, but also extremely bizarre & funky in more of a sport climbing or bouldering sort of way mixed in. VERY hard for 5.9.

Climb the slab to the trees, then climb the ascending roof crack (#4-#5 C4s, lower crux), turn the corner into a flaring overhanging chimney (VG9/#7-#8 C4 size at the tightest), and scootch up to the chockstone that gradually dumps you out onto the overhang (higher, harder crux). Body torque off your legs to fight this as you work up good jams before a fist+bear hug finish, where you either smear feet on the underside of the overhand or do a wild stem to the protruding blocks on the left.

Finish up an easy squeeze and hand traverse/rail walk downclimb to a bong bong piton and tight hands gear. From here either belay followers before finishing, or use a long sling. Finish is via unprotected 5.5ish slab to the bushes.

To descend, traverse the brush ledge along the next slab area about 50' to the East (left) to some rappel anchors. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Allen's Ridge Area