A varied and interesting route.

Steep and strenuous climbing past the first three bolts (crux) yields to low-angle slabbing.  Near the top of the route, there is a committing, dynamic mantle onto a ledge and then an easy scramble to the anchors.

Mammoth Poaching

Exilis Dihedral

Mowgli Walk

Elephant in the Room

Right Between the Eyes

Grand Old Pachyderm

Teenage Mastodon

Baby Mammoth

Orphaned Elephant

Barbecued Mammoth

Black Tide (A.K.A. Surfing with Elephants)

Exilis Dihedral climbs the most striking feature on the cliff--a large, left-facing dihedral in the center of the formation.

Delicate slab climbing past three bolts (crux) leads to the dihedral.  Laybacking and stemming deposits you at the top of the dihedral on a large ledge.  A few easy fifth-class moves take you over the final bulge to a rap anchor on a spacious ledge.

Layback and stem for 15 feet up a dihedral.  Exit the dihedral, escaping left and then up onto a ledge above.  Move left and then climb an easy ramp up to a steep headwall.  Thin edging leads up vertical rock past the crux.

Varied climbing through three tiers of rock on the tallest part of the wall.

The route starts with steep face climbing on positive holds (5.8+) on rock that is strangely reminiscent of San Ysidro.  Upon reaching a ledge atop the first tier, the route follows blocks up and slightly right, in the direction of an obvious overhang.  The route then follows positive holds up to the roof.  A devilish mantel leads to easy slab-climbing.

The route ends on a wide, grassy ledge in what feels like a rocky amphitheater--the position is excellent.

The route can be rappelled with 2 ropes.

Getting to, and past the 3rd bolt is the crux. After passing the 4th bolt at the mini roof is a big ledge. The climbing eases from here. Climb directly up between the two caves/“eyes”, passing 4 more bolts.  After clipping the last bolt, an interesting little slab move will get you to the anchor.

Things are not as they seem...the steepest part of this route is surprisingly easy.  The slabby upper reaches are surprisingly hard.  All in all a fun addition to Derrydale.

The route follows steep face climbing on positive edges past the first two bolts--amazingly, solid edges appear wherever they are needed.  Just below the third bolt, the angle drops back.  From here, delicate slab climbing leads past two more bolts.  There is a clear crux encounter just above the fourth bolt.  If you escape right, it is possible to bypass the hardest moves.  Finish to the left on the anchors of Mammoth Poaching.

From the holds at the lip in the center of the roof, reach the small, but positive rail. Then bring your feet up to the lip of the roof. Climbing eases from here. Finish on the last half of “Orphaned Elephant”

Crux moves are right off the chossy ledge. A high left foot gets you going and into the good edges. Go over the small cave/flake feature on the right. Climb past two more bolts on good crimps and holes to the anchor. Shares anchor with “Orphaned Elephant”

From the chossy and (Ugh) dirty ledge climb the 2ft roof to the fist sized hueco/hole. Once standing in the hole move right, then straight up passing two more bolts on edges and holes then angle right to the anchor

Face climb up the black streak past the big yellow/green lichen patch on the left, to the 5 1/2 inch wide, but short roof crack to the anchors. Crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Another balancy crux after clipping the 4th bolt. The route is still new and has some Choss on it, just like all the other routes on the cliff. But most of the holds are pretty solid

Boulder problem crux start, leads to the sweeping, almost-breaking-wave like headwall

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Derrydale Cliff