I liked the first bolt on pitch two, it protects groundfall potential on a ramp and the 3rd bolt is on great rock for clipping.  Right after that it gets steep and cruxy.  Well bolted and on great rock, it is one of the best I have been on in camelback.   

  It is next to  one of the scariest routes on camelback, The Icebox 5.8x.  It actually shares one of the bolts up high.  The Icebox is the dihedral, very soft rock, just to this route's left.

Spice Box

Ghastly Rubberfat

The Walk Up

George Route

Donamatrix

Blood Runs Thicker

Cameltoe

Curious George

Headwall Route

Rain of Terror

Sleazy Street

Rappel Gully

Going from the undercling, and setting it up right, is the crux.  I have hit it with either hand but I think the right hand high is best.  The jug is incut and perfect.  How much better does it get?

Somewhat overhung throughout most of the climb.  IMO, the crux is the first few moves off the ground.  Lots of loose rock outside of the bolt line.

This scramble is a great adventure that takes you into the mouth of August Canyon. The rock is for the most part solid granite, but be careful of loose gravel over the surface on ledges. It is the definition of fourth class, and quickly gains great exposure over the north face of the head.  

  Start up low angle fourth class from the western end of the headwall, about 100' right of the dihedral that Spicebox climbs. It's a pick-your-own-adventure style route, so go up whatever looks good and aim for a large ledge about 80' up. At this point, start traversing right. Somewhere in here is the first of several old bolts on the route. There are just enough to let you know you're on route. Keep traversing right, gaining no elevation. When you come to a bolt with ring and second nearby bolt, traverse down and right (do not be lured into going up) around a corner. At this point you should see cairns built on a boulder in a small amphitheater type formation. Keep following the easiest line up and right into August Canyon. 

  Overall a super fun scramble on (mostly) good rock.

This is a water streak, holds are fairly stable but climb softly anyways.  Pebbles rain down from the top of the Headwall and continue down eventually.  Mostly knobs and edges in the matrix make for good holds.  Stay low in the traverse to the left on the first pitch to keep the bolt above you.  Use a long sling.

8-bolt face climbing up through a bulge (5.7 crux) to a two-bolt chain anchor.  If you know more about this route, please post!

Start approximately 100ft. to the right of The George route. If you like The George route this is a fun alternate start. Scramble up 10-15 Ft. to granite ledge to belay. Then follow nine bolts to two bolt anchor with chains. A two foot runner on the third bolt will reduce rope drag. It is possible to rappel however due to rope drag toperoping isn't recommended. General Camelback Caution should be used and helmets recommended.

The safest way to access the upper terrace.

Climb a recessed gully with hard-to-find pro to a ledge.  Most approach this route as a solo to the upper terrace.

Four easy routes on the wall allow access to the upper terrace routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Headwall