This route is at the far right-hand side of the Fort Apache area, right after coming back up to the rock after leaving Senior Wall.  The climb is vertical at first, becoming slabby after the first few bolts.  The crux lies between the 2nd and 4th bolts.  After the 5th bolt the climb is about 5.6.  WARNING: the first big left foothold under the 1st bolt is very loose, and probably doesn't have long to live.  Also, watch out for poison oak all over the ground, and on the wall up until the 3rd bolt.

Half Wit

Man with One Rad Shoe

Miles Beyond

Jug Addict

Spin Doctor

Spin Doctor Continuation

This climb is the rightmost bolted climb in the main Fort Apache area, and is one bolt line left of Half Wit (5.9).  Trust your feet for the first 2 bolts' worth of climbing.  The route is pumpy, and leads to a foot-fun crux after the 4th bolt.  This is followed by an easier - but still pumpy - finishing section.

This route shares anchors with both neighboring 5.10d's, Jug Addict and Spin Doctor.  Its bolt line is located in between these two climbs, and is the 3rd line of bolts from the leftmost bolt line, Man With One Rad Shoe (5.10d).  The route starts next to a low, left-angled tree.Climb up and right on a slight overhang with slippery footholds.  The crux is around the 3rd bolt; enjoy some moves for which having long arms is quite useful.

This climb is the rightmost climb in the Fort Apache area.  It begins directly behind the prominent left-leaning tree, and shares its anchor with Miles Beyond (5.11b) and Spin Doctor (5.10d).  Spin Doctor Continuation (5.10a) is an optional second pitch to walk off the top of Table Mountain.Begin the climb just right of the left arete, and climb up, angling right after the 4th bolt.  This climb involves larger holds than most at Ft. Apache, but there are some crimpy sections.  Watch out for poison oak on the ground near the climb's start.

This is the third bolt line from the left, heading up somevery steep huge jugs.

Climb up huge slightly overhung jugs to a slab, and thenfind  way to mantle over the ledge for the crux. Climbing ispumpy, but not exceedingly difficult.

This route continues upwards and right from the shared topanchor above Spin Doctor (5.10d), Jug Addict (5.10d), andMiles Beyond (5.11b).

Avoid the temptation to move up and left to the close bolt,as this is actually a variation linking Jug Addict with theContinuation.  Going from the belay anchor to the left boltwill make for some serious rope drag high up.

Head up to the first bolt, and then follow the crack systemright to the next bolt, which is right next to the topanchor for Man with One Rad shoe (5.10d). The crux iscommiting footwork on a rather runout section of traversyclimbing.  Needless to say, falling in the crux would bequite painful.  Once you're to the second bolt head straightup, where climbing is considerably simpler.

You can walk off the top of this route, as you are at therim of table mountain.  I don't place too much trust in thesling on the higher top anchor bolt, so I would recommendbringing another sling of your own.

Description

Protection

Routes in Fort Apache