Don't want to ruin those new manpris thrutching up off widths? Like clipping bolts yet still find overhanging hand cracks appealing? Climb up the initial hand crack of White lies yellow teeth, step left onto the ledge, then compress and crimp your way up the prow to anchors at the top.

Teeth like God's Shoeshine

White Lies Yellow Teeth

Loopy After Dark

Another Cookie

The Butterfly Effect

Pure Peter Pan Peanut Butter

Never Ending Math Equation

A Better Place, Now!

Reachy Reachy Grabby Grabby Monkey Arms

Taint No Thang

Pep-O-Mint

Carefully calculate your way up the right side of a knife edged arete through barn door friction cruxes conveniently located above each bolt. The last move to the anchors may be a heart breaker.

A clean sustained overhanging hand to fist crack

‘Loopy After Dark’ climbs the obvious crack in a corner on the most northern set of exposed cliffs at Payne lake. There are opportunities for other routes of varying styles, both at this wall and others on the paddle up, though rock quality isn’t the best.

 Start in the center of the left facing corner, climb up through a few small terraces. From here, a series of stemming moves passing small gear brings you up to a slanted ledge with crumbly rock and tricky gear placements. Step right and follow the slightly overhanging hand crack to the top. Watch out for loose rock if topping out. 

Climb up the initial tight hand crack (crux) and up on good holds around the wide crack. Descend by walking climbers right to the bolted anchor above Pep-O-Mint.

Work your way through hard initial moves and get stuck into a small open book crack with decent laybacking moves and no feet. Get established on a ledge with a full rest and work your way up towards another ledge with an awkward mantle. After this there is still another 10 feet of fun looking climb, but a series of loose death blocks thwarted our efforts. However, as it stands, a wonderful climb with some strange moves. 

Great climb with a series of horizontal ledges that makes the first half really pleasant. Last 20 feet the holds become less obvious and climbing becomes slightly harder. Really great face climbing on solid holds.

Relatively pleasant crack with positive foot holds, the crux is fighting through the bush at the very top, this can be avoided by traversing left to the inside corner but leads to less protection and significantly harder climbing.

Very nice and thoughtful climbing with some face and arete moves mixed in. Secret ledges make this climb a lot of fun and easier than initially thought. 

The crux is low over a ledge and involves a left hand reach to gain a crack guarded by flexy flakes. 

  Rappel from trees.

If done in its current state this route will not leave you feeling so fresh or so clean. Once clean it will make for an easy route to the top and a decent first trad lead. climb the crack and positive holds to the top.

This area is a ridge of cliffs, some up to 130'-tall, that border the west side of Payne Lake. The ridge continues along the entire length of the lake and there are some bouldering opportunities to the northwest of the main face. 

  This area is mostly undeveloped for climbing, visited only by the occasional hunter, fisherman, and kayaker. There are at least 4 large-ish cliffs with sheer, overhanging faces. More exploration is necessary, as it seems to be one of the few public-land climbing opportunities in upstate New York outside of the Adirondacks. 

  The rock is similar to that at Eagle Falls. Some is good, some is crumbly, and all of it is brittle. New routes will require cleaning and plucking. Trad protection is sucpect due to the brittle nature of the rock, so take care. 

  If you're at all nearby here please check this rock out and add some comments or routes to the site so that this unknown area can get a little attention. 

  On the lakeside cliffs, there is poison ivy *everywhere*, so watch out!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Payne Lake