Very cool route on mostly good rock.  The leader should be solid since there are definitely 5.10 do not fall sections, though the 5.11 crux is very safe.  The approach is heinous - scramble up slabs on the north side to get to the ledge between Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher.  The route climbs the obvious splitter in the picture.

Pitch 1 - traverse easily 10 feet right, and head up an overhanging blocky section with less than perfect rock.  This is 5.10 and the R section.  It used to be protected by a fixed angle, but I pulled it out with my fingers and it is now sitting on my fireplace.  Work your way into the well protected splitter which starts out hard 5.11 fingers and eases and widens as you go up.  Traverse right to a ledge with an overhang directly above it - sort of cave like.  120' 5.11b.

Pitch 2 - fire over the roof via a burly 4 camalot sized crack.  Continue up a gaping offwidth above, and traverse left on somewhat friable rock.  Head up through easier cracks to the amazing summit.  90', 5.10+.

Enjoy the spectactular summit.  There is a decent anchor where with 60 meter ropes you can make a double rope rap to the ground.  There is a station in between, so you may be able to descend with one rope, but I have no idea if it would work or not - easiest to do the double rope rap.  There was no summit register when I did this, and you may want to bring webbing to replace the tat on top.

South Face

North Face

A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1)  The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper.  80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.

P2).  Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge.  Bolt/rap anchors.  100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free)

P3).  Follow good but awkward cracks to summit.  100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free)

Descent:  Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.

This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.NOTE>  Pitches 2 and 3 freed by Micheal Ferraro in 2009

Nice area, great views, no people.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dreamspeaker