P1: Begins on top an 8-ft tall detached leaning column. From here ascend continuously off-width cracks. Mid-way traverse left, belay from bolts behind an obvious 3 foot high block. P2: P3: Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue. topos on pages 102 and 103.

Step Up

Magic Blocks

Crash Landing

North West Gully

Three pitches of classic SW Oregon Climbing. P1: (5.10b, 100 ft) 4 bolts placing gear to 2 inches. P2: (5.11a, 60 ft) pulling the roof on jugs, finishing with 5.7 climbing. 2 bolts, gear to 1 inch. P3: (5.10a, 100 ft) Traverse left 10 feet then up orange prow and right through clean bulges, finishing on somewhat loose rock near top. Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 3: Rogue. topos pages 102 and 103, cover photo, and photos on pages 101 and 104.

The obvious North West gulley that the trail dead ends to. BLM Oregon has a complete spray down of the beta https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38VZuffSGo0

 Amazing views of Shasta and the surrounding area.

 When Dry: It's a 3rd/4th/5th class depending on your definition and tolerance. You could easily wreck yourself if you slipped further up since there aren't huge ledges to catch you if you slip. You could put gear in if you wanted to.

 (why there is a M1 rating) In Winter: I've climbed it a few times when there was snow and ice on it. Definitely a different ball game, but doable as an alpine like mixed scramble. Snow will obscure most of the holds/ ledges and the friction sections become completely slick. Crappy rock already so I wore crampons which let you actually use the small edges and bits of ice. The "vertical sections" that are in that BLM video one time had enough ice in them to actually swing a tool into. The top friction section was the least secure as we had to figure out which patches of snow were on small "ledges", and which just slid off. Not sure you could place solid cams in when the rock is super slick, and up higher not really places to put nuts.

An awesome rhyolitic volcano plug situated in the Siskiyou Mtns. with columns that tilt 20-30 degrees to the northeast.  Fun climbing with a handful of 2-3 pitch routes.  A lot of the routes have loose rock, so a brain bucket is a good idea.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pilot Rock