Start 15 to the right of Dirt Crack at the twin overlapping flakes that look vaguely like the State of Vermont.  Climb up and a bit left to attain the MT ledge (limited pro).  Follow the MT Ledge left until it is possible to move upward past an orange patch of rock and some loose blocks to an in cut ledge beneath a small roof above which runs an uneven vertical crack.  Work your way up the crack and nearby arête  to the ledge above (crux).   Continue strait up to the top and belay from one of the nearby trees or traverse 10 left to the anchors for Dirt Crack.

The Donkey

Minor Traverse

Beginner's Slab

Fluffiest Bunny

Creepy Caterpillar

Fluffy Bunny

Pretty Pony

Roofy Business

Dirt Crack

Mixed climb. 

  Protection:    1 bolt, small rack. Pin that used to be between bolt and crack is gone.  

  Description: Modified from the CRAG-VT guide: Begin on right facing vertical features to right of Roofy Business    and beneath vertical crack 20+ feet up. V0 boulder problem leads to one bolt    ~8 feet off deck below vertical crack. Move up to the vertical crack, climbing past the old location of a piton. Protect crack and    climb to 2-bolt anchors. R protection now that piton is gone.

Start as for Fluffiest Bunny.  Once on the MT (Minor Traverse) Ledge, traverse left along the ledge and into the large muddy cove capped by the namesake roof of Roofy Business.  At the left end of the cove, just before it goes from head height to knee height, climb up through the roof and onto a narrow in cut ledge (crux).  Follow this ledge left until it crosses Beginners Slab then follow this line to the top.  This fun mixed line has a few bolts and takes reasonable trad gear.  The 5.6 lead up will make the 5.9 crux all the more exciting.  Leaders, be sure to protect your second both during and immediately after the crux as a run out here could see your second taking an ugly swing.

Mixed Route. 

  From the CRAG-VT guide: Route begins on rock face to the right of a left-facing corner. A gully leads abruptly uphill to your left too. Climb cool face moves to the mini-roof/hole, clip the single bolt, finish two bolt anchor. PG protection: standard rack with small   pieces.

Start in the open book corner 6 right of Pretty Pony.  Climb the open book corner up to a roof and then work your way up and left to the MT ledge.  Trend up and left to the small roof over the orange section of rock.  Staying above the MT ledge, traverse left to the Fluffy Bunny cracks.  Finish as for Fluffy Bunny.  Belay from the obvious tree at the top.  This fun linkup has an interesting start and combines the best features of Pretty Pony and Fluffiest Bunny.

Start 5 right of The Donkey.  Climb straight up to the MT ledge.  Clip high and then enjoy the delicate crux.  Easier climbing after the 4th bolt will take you to the anchors.  Delicate moves on good rock.  Perhaps a bit spicy if 5.7 is the top of your game.

Start 8 right of Creepy Caterpillar at the twin cracks in front of the tree.  Follow the cracks as they angle up and right crossing the MT ledge and continuing to the top.  Belay from the obvious tree at the top.

Start in the alcove 5 right of Fluffy Bunny.  Work your way up the right facing corner and over a face split by 3 thin vertical cracks until it is possible to attain the MT ledge.  Work your way up to a small roof above an orange section of rock, then move up and left to a set of twin right leaning cracks.  Follow the cracks to the arête and then work your way left along the arête to the finish of Fluffy Bunny.  Belay from the obvious tree at the top.

From the CRAG-VT guide: Begin at right-facing blocky jugs directly below diagonal   crack ~ 15 off the deck. To right of Beginners Slab. Climb jugs to diagonal crack   leading to roof. Make awkward mantle under roof, being careful to protect the roof   moves via mini dihedral crack off left-facing corner of roof. Pull cool moves through roof   and follow diagonal incipient crack left, then face moves and horizontal cracks to twobolt   anchors. PG 13 protection: standard rack with small pieces. 

  -----------   The crux will be a grade higher for the shorter climbers (5'5" and shorter), I think, as they will need to be a bit dynamic to reach the jugs to pull the roof.

A nice 70 foot slab wall.  Approach time is  about 1 minute from the road.  The area is very shaded in the summer. 

  For toproping: head left up the gully to get on top of the cliff.  All 3 climbs have bolted anchors, although for the leftmost climb, Beginner's Slab, you will need to repel down to as the anchors sit a good 10 feet beneath the top of the cliff.

Description

Protection

Routes in Trad Wall