Fun stuff to the roof, hard pull over roof then a bit more business till it eases up and joins Candy Man.

Parting Shot

Flight Stimulator

Tributary

Aerial Combat

Here's my Paddle!

Watershed

Finders Keepers

Cat On A Hot Thin Roof

Air Break

Blood Book

Abandonement Issues

Old and Creeky

Fleuger Chimney

A River Runs To It

Use It Or Lose It

Flight Line 2

Flight Line 3

Losers Weepers

All Washed Up

Skybox

Polar Bear Club

Non-nuclear Arms

Tryptophandemonium

Jibber Jabber

Virgin's Airline

Sweetie Don't Bite

Trailing Edge

Air Worthy

Forget Me Not

Aretes Syndrome

Omission Statement

Explorers

Don't Grab Here

Candy Man

Napolean Complex

Black Water

Collateral Damage

Wreckless Abandon

No Tooth Or Consequences

Flight Line 1

Running With The Bulls

Where's My Paddle

Eskimo Roll

Sundance

The first thirty feet will get your attention and the last seventy will keep it.  Starts right of Finders Keepers turns a bulge with horizontal cracks in it.  Then follows weaknesses right until it heads straight up to the anchors.

Getting to the stance to clip the bolt right of the roof is the trick to this climb.  Good pro and easier climbing above.

This route climbs the very fun original start to Where's My Paddle but clips a bolt and heads left to the top of Blackwater.  Now the whole climb is closer to the grade rather than 5.9 crack to an 11+ finish.  The crux is after you join the top of Blackwater.

The crack through the 5 foot roof is the crux.  It really helps to have a ton of tape or some crack gloves.  The jams are painful otherwise.  The left start is as tricky as the roof itself and makes the route a tad harder.

A good warmup for the other warm ups.  More interesting than it looks.

25 feet of easy 4th class climbing up to a ledge with a bolt that is right of a short, yellow, right-facing corner capped by a roof. The roof  extends right almost to the crack system that is Blackwater.  Turn roof and climb face to left facing corner.

Tricky sustained face climbing with a great finish.  Go left after the bulge.  If you go straight up you are on Losers Weepers which has the same start.

Good face and seam climbing to roof moves with thin face above.  Interesting ending too.

Low slightly awkward crux leads to fun face above.

One of the best gear climbs in the grade.  Good pro all the way to the anchors.  Looks harder than it is.

A large right facing dihedral that is the most obvious feature on the wall.  It would get 3 stars if the rock at the bottom bolted part of the corner (2nd) pitch was a bit less grainy.  Pitch 1) 5.8 Climb face to nice belay ledge right of corner. 2) 5.11 Move left into corner then up dihedral past 4 or 5 bolts then start plugging gear.

Fun, easy move around the big roof, then a steep bit gets you to some slab and a final steep headwall.     Look for a thin flake that sticks out like a beak on the right side of the tower.

Climb the chimney.  A bit of funky rock.  Move left to get pro.

Easy slab gains the arete.  Then steep face up and left around the corner.  Pumpy moves up the arete followed by a thin crux.

Start up 4th class ramp clip a bolt left of a small roof then head up face to a crack.  Some peopl use a 1 inch cam to protect moves to anchors.

Start up 4th class ramp get some small gear in the corner then carefully work up to the only bolt on the climb.  Good gear will get you to the top.

The crux is the first bulge but it doesn't let up a lot after that.

Another chance to hand jam and crack climb on the Lemmon.    Climb crack for 10 feet to bolt, head to 2nd bolt above roof on left.    From ledge clip bolt then jam horizontally left to gain crack on headwall.

This climb has the best seat in the house for threading the anchors.  Hard down low with a relatively easy finish out the left side of the big roof if you figure it out.  A slightly easier start known as the Cheap Seats Variation 5.10+ starts in the same spot but scrambles up the gully then steps from the flake to the wall.  Three bolts and you are on the upper part of Skybox.

Short but fun face climbing with interesting features.  Good warmup.

Like the climbs to the left and the right this route is a puzzle and difficult to put together.  This will not get many onsights and those who do will claim the route is sandbagged.  Two distinct cruxes the first of which ends with hard to decipher move on to a ledge.  The second has a cool open hand sequence to hard moves over a roof.

Two crux bits will have to scratching you head.  The first has a stance allowing you to ponder at length. The roof, on the other hand, is go time.    The roof is not as hard as it looks once you know the beta.  

  Like all the climbs on the Forgotten Wall, the climbing stays interesting all the way to the chains.

This climb has a few very thin moves and might be harder than 5.11.  We will see what the people think.  It is two pitches but shares the first pitch with Abandonment Issues.

115 foot pitch.     This route has sustained climbing with unusual face holds for Mt. Lemmon.

This long route has some engaging sections.  A 70 meter rope will reach or lower to the anchors you pass as you lead the whole thing as one pitch.

This route has good trad pro when you need and a few bolts to supplement the gear.  Interesting crack climbing before the summit block will test you.

Thin powerful crimping.  The last 20 feet make the middle 25 worth doing.

This is a short trad route that is in your face for two short cruxes.  Bomber gear in good crack make it safe or you can TR the thing from the anchors on Skybox.

A tad forced as you must leave a crack and do some hard moves to reach the arete.  Once there it takes some hold on to get to the anchors

Pretty sustained until you move back to the left side of the arete.

Climb crack to low angle face. Wander up and around some unprotected roofs until you can get into a crack above them.

Crux is up high and bolt protected.  Getting there using bolts and good gear is fun.

Short silly looking climb that packs a lot of climbing into 30 feet.  Climb two cracks until you can pull over to the left one.

A Mt. Lemmon trad climbing gem.     Bomber gear, and an awkward crux   

Really tricky crux that is not intuitive.  The climb eventually works out the right side of the big roof.

A lot of cleaning was done to climb this route which is fun.  If the rock is bad you have not found the hold you want to use.  The crud can be avoided and most of the climbing is worth doing.  The bottom and the top both have some cool stuff.

Stuff is a little crispy until you get up to the face that leads to the weakness in a small roof.  Above this is a neat corner system that is just left of an arete.  Originally called Tooth or Consequences Jimbo while redpointing this climb busted the tooth off.  He had been insisting it was going to break while I had been insiting otherwise.  He was right and we determined you can take a pretty good whipper and not hit the ledge.

Short route that starts by fourth classing up a ramp clipping a bolt then stepping left and climbing left of a small orange roof.  Half way up is a neat little layback crack.

A little bit of funk on and around the ledge midway up the climb.  The climbing above and below that is good.  Climb bolted groove to ledge where chimney starts. Move left on to overhanging face.

Start up a moderate slab to a fun move onto a ledge.  Climb steep thin face then out right through the roof.  The climbing keeps getting harder with every bolt you clip, right to the final pull onto the ledge.

Fun face climbing leads to a crazy traverse at the top.

On the NE Face of the Control Tower, two routes require you to scramble up crap rock to a ledge.  Sundance is the LEFT route and climbs just right of the striking arete, using the big flake (with finger locks) for the first 20 feet.  Airworthy is the RIGHT-hand route on the NE Face.  Both routes have anchors, but for full value on Sundance, go to the (higher) Airworthy anchors, then use the Sundance anchor as a directional to clean the route. 

  Both of these routes go into the shade before 11 am.

This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days.  The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.     The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall.  It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs.  The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower.  The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off.  You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid.  If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12-   Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off.  Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope.  Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower. 

  Overhead topo for locating routes: 

pikaconsulting.com/climbing…  (PDF File)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall